Harmony Gardens

2012-01-30T16:15:00.001-06:00

Grow Your Own Vegetables!

Natural (Organic) Gardening Course

Saturday, March 10 or April 7, 2012

Time: 8:30am – 5:00pm,

Ozark Electric Community Room

3641 Wedington Dr., Fayetteville, AR

Pre-registration is required. Class size is limited. The cost is $75.00 per person, and includes the gardening book, How to Grow More Vegetables… by John Jeavons, and 60 pages of material prepared by the instructor. If you have the Jeavons book, deduct $15.00. For couples, who want to share the book and other handouts, the cost is $125.00. You can register by sending a check to Calvin Bey, 8779 W. Forest Hills Dr., Fayetteville, AR 72704. Please provide your name, address, telephone number, and email. Call Calvin at 479-527-6951, or email cfbey1936@cox.net for more information.

The course includes gardening concepts and practices with emphasis on growing NUTRIENT DENSE vegetables. The concepts apply to flowers and yards. Course material is documented, and includes practical tips from 50 years of gardening experience. Topics include soils, soil testing, soil biology, selecting the garden site, tools, double-digging, composting, plant spacing, fertilizing, watering, companion planting, mulching, vermiculture, compost tea, green manure crops, nitrogen fixing crops, winter cover crops, winter gardens, pest management, weeds, paramagnetic effects, and organic gardening resources. See http://harmonygardens.blogspot.com

Who Should Attend: The course is designed for those with little to much gardening knowledge and experience. Get your AR soil test done before the course. Allow 3 weeks for the test results to be returned. Call Calvin for specific instructions. Calvin will assist students with soil test interpretations, and provide help on fertilizer recommendations. Call if you have questions regarding these items.

Instructor: Dr. Calvin Bey grew up on a farm in Michigan and is a retired USDA Forest Service scientist, with a deep concern about health and environmental issues. Over the past 50 years, he has gardened in ten different geographic areas, and has trained under John Jeavons using the Grow Biointensive® approach. He has studied gardening extensively and has grown more than 40 kinds of vegetables and fruits in his garden in Fayetteville, AR.

Hot Weather Tomatoes

2011-08-07T17:18:00.006-05:00

Just a short note and a few pictures of tomatoes growing in my garden in this HOT and DRY summer. Many gardens have failed completely in our area, and I don't pretend that this is a good year, but I have had good luck with a plum (roma-like) variety (Granadero, F1) tomato. Johnny's Select Seeds (Johnnyseeds.com) has them. They call them a 75-day tomato, with TMV, V F2, TSW, N, and PM qualities.

I planted them May 7 and began eating them by July 4th.... less than 60 days. Our spring conditions can be described as very wet, and then followed by consistently hot and dry weather -- no significant rain from May 24 until now (Aug 7).

Perhaps the unusual fact is that all my tomato plants are looking good now. They have had regular watering. While all my varieties have yielded some tomatoes, only "Granadero" continues to flower and and set fruit in 100 degree-plus weather. See the photos. We have picked 20 pounds per plant and there is another 30 pound still on each of the plants. With a change to more normal weather, production per plant could easily total 75 pounds.

With the VERY HOT weather I did try a new twist. In mid July, I covered the plants with floating row covers. Mostly, I covered the top and the west side of the plants. It provides some shade and serves as a windbreak to the prevailing hot winds. It appears to have helped. More details on production will follow.

Tree and Shrub Watering Guidelines

2011-07-16T14:14:00.004-05:00

EMERGENCY: Aug 2, 2011. Since writing this article in mid July, the drought (heat/wind/dryness) has become much worse. And it promises to go on for an extended time. I have discussed this topic with many, and one thing seems clear. Gardeners are NOT checking their soil to actually feel the moisture. I strongly recommend: Dig down at least 8 inches into the soil (for garden, shrubs and trees). At that depth, a handful of that soil should be wet enough to not fall apart when squeezed and dropped. Tree tops are turning brown in our native forests --a sure sign of severe stress.

Here in Northwest AR, the hot/dry/windy weather that we are currently experiencing, is ow taking its toll on our shrubs and trees. The low humidity and wind has depleted the soil water to an extent that I have not seen in the past decade. If you have not watered your trees and shrubs, do it now. You could lose them.

How Much Water to Apply? First, here are some facts. A one-inch rain supplies 62 gallons for each 100 square feet. A tree can easily use one to two (or more) inches of rain per week. Consider the watering area for a tree to be at least as large as the the area under the crown. (Just get the average distance in feet across the whole crown and square it). A small tree (5-inch diameter stem) can easily have a crown area of 200 square feet and a mature tree can easily have a crown area of over 600 square feet.

For each 100 square feet, add roughly 90 gallons of water per week. For most small trees (200 hundred square feet of area under the crown), I simply turn on the faucet so that I am getting 1 gallon of water per minute, and let it run for 5 hours. A soaker hose is ideal for getting good distribution. For a large, mature tree (600 square feet of area under the crown), I let the water run for about 15 hours. If you have not watered in the past 8 weeks (with essentially no rain), you should start by doubling these amounts. The soil is gun-powder dry and this amount of water is needed.

I know this may sound excessive, and I understand if you have concerns. However, consider the costs associated with tree removal, replacement, energy savings from shade on a house, and/or losses from fruit or nut production. It will quickly add up, so don’t wait and don’t skimp on the water. Use this as a guide and adjust on the methods that fit your situation. Water at night if possible.

Water Costs will vary by where you live. At Washington Water, without city sewage costs, I pay about $12.00 per each 1,000 gallons. I have 15 trees, averaging about 300 square feet of crown area per tree. At the rate of adding 90 gallons per 100 square feet, that means I need about 4,050 gallons of water per week, at a cost of about $50.00. Even if I have to do that for 6 weeks, i.e. $300.00, that is a real bargain compared with loss of shade, future pecan production, and tree removal and replacement.

Water Conservation. Anything you can do to help the soil hold more water is beneficial. I use a 6-inch layer of mulch of wood chips and leaves around my trees. As the trees grow I make the mulch circle larger each year, up to 8 feet in diameter. As the mulch decomposes, it gets incorporated into the soil, which increases the soil water holding capacity. Through transpiration, trees use a lot of water and there is not much you can do to change that water consumption.

Priorities. You may feel that you cannot water all your trees. If so, select those for watering on the basis of value. Water those Of the trees you plan to save, water those in the driest places (shallow soils) first.

Humates (Humic Acid) -- Good for all Soils

2011-07-16T14:12:00.001-05:00

On a world-wide basis, roughly two thirds of the planet’s organic carbon has been lost during the last 50 years of extractive agriculture. In Arkansas, the average soil organic matter has decreased to 1.25 percent. Five percent organic matter is a reasonable goal for garden soils.

Whether you use organic or conventional methods, adding humates to the soil is a good choice. Almost all humates are extracted from Leonardite or lignite, often referred to as brown coal. Humates not new, and fifty years of research has quantified the multiple benefits. Though often labeled simply as “humid acid,” there may be many organic acids (like those that are found in humus) in the product. Humic acid is available locally.

The benefits of humates directly parallel the benefits of humus -- pH buffering, moisture retention, microbe stimulation, soil structure enhancement, improved nutrient uptake, and even removal of toxins (like Roundup). These and other benefits result in reduced need for fertilizers. Humid acid has an extremely high Cation Exchange Capacity (450), so serves a tremendous benefit in reducing leaching of other minerals. We all needed that in April and May. Reduced leaching saves money.

The product comes in liquid or the dry form. Several on-line sources mix the product with other helpful soil amendments like kelp (for potassium) or beneficial microbes. Whether you use the liquid or the dry, a little goes a long way. One quart of the locally available humic acid (12%) covers 5,000 square feet.

This is not just a garden product. It is used on lawns, orchards, pastures, and grain crops.

Spring and Summer Crops are turning out very well, despite the cool spring, rain and now the HOT June. The photos below show onions, beets, carrots, cabbage, peppers, and potatoes harvested on June 17. Tomatoes, beans, okra, and sweet potatoes look very good. Of course, they love this hot weather. These are some of the easiest vegetables to grow. Learn the details. See below.

Fall Gardening is just six weeks away, and I have already been talking with folks about some of the specific things that are needed to be successful. It seems, just when the gardening enthusiasm begins to wane (in hot August), that is the time to re-charge for the fall. Paying attention to the garden in the fall is critical to winter weed control and having a healthy soil in the spring.

My next and last 2011, Organic Gardening Course will be Saturday, August 6. It will invigorate you for growing vegetables in the fall, and getting in your winter cover crops. Fall gardening is in fact my favorite gardening time of year. See my web site or email me for course details.

Waterlogged Soils and Soil-less Growing Mix

2011-07-16T14:09:00.003-05:00

Waterlogged Soils. After a very dry early spring we hit the jackpot in late April with 12-16 inches of rain in a week. That has caused many problems. The most noticeable effects were the erosion and soil compaction. On even a slight slope, that pounding rain may have taken away an inch or more of top soil. You may have also noticed some plants turning yellow and some of them even wilting. The Reason -- those waterlogged soils contain almost no air and the plants can not take up nutrients and grow.

If you had serious soil issues, plan now for making some changes. Wet soil problems are usually fixable. It may be that drainage ditches are needed, or maybe you even have to change the garden location.

The value of raised beds was never more self evident than with these recent rains. Except for one bed of newly emerging carrots, all my raised beds were covered with spring vegetable crops and/or mulched with straw. They suffered very little with the rain. A couple days after the rains stopped, I “fixed” the carrot bed by adding a little compost and covering the area with finely chopped, old straw. Production for the spring crops looks great.

Soil-Less Growing Mix. One gardening book, and other “experts” advocate growing gardens in a soil-less mix composed of several different kinds of organic material. I am opposed to this practice. It is not surprising that I have had several calls this year from soil-less mix

users who describe past results as “poor” to “miserable.”

These soil-less mixes are generally not sustainable and far from what I call good organic gardening practices. Produce from those gardens are invariably poor in nutrient content. As a rule, if the plants can even get

started in such a mix, they end up having lush vegetation, with little to no fruit production, and a preponderance of insect issues. It is no wonder. As a rule compost does not have the correct ratios of minerals needed by plants for good fruit production. I have heard gardeners say, “you can’t use too much compost.” That is not true. I caution gardeners routinely, to use compost wisely, i.e. sparingly.

There is no simple solution for those garden beds filled with a soil-less mix. Several gardeners I know are digging out their expensive soil-less mix and starting over with some top soil at about ten percent the cost. A small amount of the mix may be useful as a soil amendment. It will depend on the nutrients in the mix, but I would start with no more than 10 parts soil to 1 part soil-less mix for any vegetable garden. See photo below for results comparing a soil mix(left )from a soil-less mix(right).

Raised Beds and Tilling

2011-05-13T21:26:00.001-05:00

Let’s hope that the real cold weather is behind us by April 1, but don’t count on it. Some of you remember the frosty white, 18 degree morning on Easter, April 8, 2008. Remember that our average last spring frost occurs about April 10. If you not yet started, you can still plant all of the spring crops in April. There is also still time to start new beds. One of the first decisions is whether or not to use raised beds.

Raised beds have some real advantages. They are better aerated, they drain better after heavy rains, and warm up faster in the spring. I recommend using 4-foot wide beds, double-dug, with a 2-foot pathway. Coupled with close-spacing, raised beds can make more efficient use of your garden area.

Raised beds are also appropriate if you bring in soil for your stoney site. In either case, you do not need side boards for your beds

(unless the site is on a steep slope.) Raised beds or not, you next need to decide on your method of tilling.

Tillage. After double-digging, and adding a one-inch layer of compost and appropriate minerals (based on a soil test), many gardeners think that the tiller is the next tool to use. It is not necessary to use a tiller and it can be easily argued that it does not fit in the “going sustainable” model. A tiller can actually destroy good soil structure, especially in working heavy soils. In these soils, tilling can decrease the soil water holding capacity. A garden fork is all you need to gently twist-in fertilizers and compost. Using a tiller is somewhat of a guy thing -- a show of macho power and control.

The first question concerning tilling is often, “then how do I control weeds?” Its simple -- mulch and cover crops will take care of most weeds. The photo shows the dense crop of Austrian winter peas and oats, and how it can suppress any weeds. The next question is, “But how do I loosen the soil?” That is primarily the work of of the soil organisms,

Choosing the Right Fertilizer

2011-05-13T21:24:00.001-05:00

I often get calls saying, “I am ready to plant, what fertilizer should I use?” That’s an excellent question, but I can’t answer it very well without additional information. I have seen hundreds of soil test reports and it is clear that that gardens are extremely variable in mineral content. Without a soil test report, adding fertilizer is just a guess. Even with a soil test in hand, my recommendation is always, “go slow when adding fertilizers.” This also applies to the use of compost.

The easiest soils to adjust are those where the original mineral contents are slightly low. This is likely to be the case with our native prairie/pasture soils that have not been fertilized. The hardest, and sometimes nearly impossible adjustments, are those soils where the gardener has added excessive amounts of compost and/or certain minerals.

The goal in gardening is to slowly raise the soil organic matter to about 5 percent, and get all of the minerals to an acceptable level. Once you get to that level, high quality compost may be all you need to add to your garden. Your compost quality will only be as good as the material from which it is derived.

Organic fertilizers are available in the area (Nitron Industries and others) and you have options for what to use for the various elements needed for good plant growth and production. Here are some fertilizer recommendations for nitrogen-N, phosphorus-P, potassium-K, calcium-Ca, and boron-B. The percent of the mineral in the fertilizer may vary with source of material. It will specify the amount on the bag. Unless

specified otherwise, the ratios indicate the percent N, P and K in the fertilizer.

Nitrogen: Use alfalfa meal (3-1-2), fish meal (10-2-2), or feather meal (14-0-0).

Phosphorus: Use soft rock phosphate (0-5-0). The 5% is available the first year, and more each year, up to 22%. Soft rock phosphate also contains calcium.

Potassium: Use greensand (0-1-5) or kelp (1-0-8). Many local soils have a near-adequate amount of K.

Calcium: Use high quality calcium carbonate or lime (0-0-0-38 percent Ca). Most local soils will need additional Ca.

Boron: Use Borax, which is 10% boron. Remember this mineral is involved in the plant’s ability to use calcium. For local soils that test zero for boron, add 4 Tablespoons of Borax per 100 square feet.

The advantages of these fertilizers are: (1) they are slow release and provide long-lasting nutrition for good plant growth; (2) they are not detrimental to soil microorganisms, as is the case with some high-salt fertilizers; and (3) they are mostly single element fertilizers, which can be tailored to the specific needs defined by the soil test.

For those wanting information describing how organic systems build soils, check out the recent March 2011 USDA Organic Farming Systems Research Conference. Evidence from long-term studies shows the values of the organic approach for the health of the soil, the plant and the consumers.

Earthing for Better Health

2011-01-11T20:11:00.006-06:00

EARTHING: Reconnecting with Mother Earth

By Calvin F. Bey

“As often as possible expose any part of your body skin to the earth or grass or natural water, lake, stream or ocean. When in your garden use non-insulating shoes, or even as you sit and read or do other actions, stay grounded.” This is a 1969 quote from Matteo Tavera, a French Agronomist, farmer and naturalist. It comes from his series of letters where Tavera espoused his visionary hypothesis that all biological life, including humans, requires continued contact with “natural electricity, which governs us all,” and furthermore, that no biological life can exist in full health without such contact. He calls it the “Sacred Mission,” meaning that our mission for life is to reconnect to the Earth.

This grounding concept did not get much exposure until it was independently rediscovered during the past decade by Clinton Ober. It has now been developed into a health improvement phenomena called Earthing.

Earthing, sometimes called grounding, is a topic you will likely be hearing more about. It is an easy-to-use and powerful health-promoting tool, backed by research and many case studies. The best source of information on the subject is the 2010 book, Earthing: The Most Important Health Discovery Ever? by Clinton Ober, Stephen T. Sinatra and Martin Zucker. If you want to check the subject of Earthing out go on-line to earthinginstitute.net.

Most Americans are not in tune with the energy, biorhythms, and inherent values of Nature. Nor are they generally very sensitive to what is going on within their own bodies. For the most part, even the modern farmers and gardeners are quite detached from truly intimate association with Nature. Many farmers ride their tractors in air-conditioned cabs, and if on the ground, they walk around on shoe soles made of rubber or synthetic material that insulates them from the earth. The small-scale gardener, with hand tools, and on his/her knees, generally does a better job in being physically connected to the earth.

In short, Earthing is suffusing your body with negative-charged free electrons that are so abundantly present on the surface of the earth. Dr. Gaetan Chevalier, Director of Earthing Institute says that Earthing restores a lost electrical signal to the body that seems to stabilize the complicated circuitry of our essentially electrical bodies. As your body equalizes to the earth’s energy level, you may sense a warm, tingling sensation with a felling of ease and well-being. In the body the electrons are the source of power for antioxidants, which in turn satisfy and quench free radicals. In essence, it stops the free radicals from stealing electrons from healthy tissues, which can result in tissue damage and chronic inflammation which is at the heart of many serious diseases.

It doesn’t stop there. Observations and research show that Earthing can increase energy, reduce chronic pain, improve sleep, reset our biological clocks, relieve muscle tension and headaches, promote quicker recovery from injuries, and much more. Earthing can also decrease one’s exposure to the harmful electromagnetic fields (EMFs) that originate from wiring in our homes, computers, appliances, power lines, cell towers, and other sources.

The feeling of grounding is something to which we can all relate. It is the fresh, rejuvenated, and energetic feeling that we experience when we walk on the grass in the spring in bare feet. I feel it when I am on my knees in the garden pulling weeds or digging produce, and I now get that same feeling when I hook myself to a copper wire that is connected to a metal rod driven into the ground outside my house.

It is very easy to get grounded, or connected to the earth. You can get a complete description of how to get grounded, and sources of materials by going to www.earthinginstitute.net. For a reasonable price you can buy grounding sheets for your bed, foot mats, desk pads, and more for use in your home. These devices simply hook into the ground wire in the home electrical system. The kits for this are being distributed by Generations Chiropractic, in Fayetteville, Arkansas.

If you prefer to build your own grounding device, here are the simple steps. Drive a metal rod into the earth next to the house. Any good conductor like copper or iron will do just fine. Connect a metal wire to the rod and run it into the house. Almost any kind of electrical wire will do. Connect the wire to your foot or just hold it in your hand. You are now grounded.

To make the grounding process easier in your home, you can make a simple foot mat by weaving some bare electrical wire on to a small piece of wood board or even cardboard. A similar device can be easily made for the bed. The wire placement or design is not critical. You just need something that provides for easy direct body contact.

There is a plethora of individual cases showing the positive effects of grounding. As a dowser, I can say that the detectable energy field of every person I have tested expanded outward by 50 percent or more, after they were grounded. Some users have felt an immediate tingling effect, while some others felt nothing immediately, but then had sensations later. The good things that Earthing can do for you will likely occur whether you feel the tingling sensation or not.

This Earthing concept and practice will just seem too simple for many Americans. For those who think that modern science and prescriptions are the main solutions to better health, this simple practice will be puzzling. Its important to remember that this is not something man has invented or created. As part of the natural process of energy flow and balance in Nature, its been available for our use since the beginning of time. Its part of Nature, where health is the default position.

Doing our part to heal the land and the people of the world is a responsibility we all share. Among the many things that we do, I suggest we all add one more -- help promote the practice of Earthing. I take this “healing’ responsibility seriously, and I hope you will too

This simple homemade foot mat made with copper wire and a thin piece of plywood, and hooked to an iron rod driven into the ground is all it takes to experience Earthing.

Calvin F. Bey, Ph.D., is a retired agriculture scientist, living in Fayetteville, Arkansas, with a passion for teaching others about nutrient-dense gardening and better health. He and his wife, Doris, use their demonstration garden and energy-efficient home to help others understand the concept of sustainability. He can be reached at CFBey1936@cox.net or by visiting harmonygardens.blogspot.com.

The Roundup Story

2011-01-03T17:26:00.004-06:00

The Roundup Story

Calvin F. Bey CFBey1936@cox.net

Few things in life are simple and gardening is no exception. Answers to questions on garden design, plant selection, soils, fertilizers, mulches, compost, cover crops, and rotations can become complex. To help simplify, I promote practices based on ecological rules. None of us would knowingly consume arsenic, simply because we know that poisons are bad for our health. A similar guiding ecological rule exists for gardening. “If a substance is toxic, i.e. not healthy for the soil, do NOT use it on the garden.”

What about the use of Roundup? Chemically known as glyphosate, Roundup kills almost anything that is green. Lawn, horticulture, and agriculture folks debate whether Roundup is safe.

At the recent AcresUSA meeting, Dr. Don Huber, spoke on the topic, “Understanding Glyphosate.” Huber is a retired Purdue University pathologist, who has researched the effects of Roundup for 20 years. His findings, and that of many others confirm the fact that Roundup is toxic and not good for the health of the soil or the plants.

Roundup was patented in 1974. The same product was patented 10 years earlier as a simple chelator, i.e. a substance that immobilizes or grabs and holds other compounds. So Roundup gets into the soil and grabs the elements, especially manganese and other micro nutrients.

Monsanto, the manufacturer, claimed Roundup was biodegradable. Oops. You don’t see that on the label anymore. In a French Court, it was proven that it did not fully degrade in the soil. Studies show that the negative effects of Roundup last for more than 10 years.

Worse than that, research studies from many places are showing reduction in vigor and yield, increased chlorosis, mottling, leaf distortions, bud and fruit abortion, plant infertility, increased attack by insects, and more. Other key consequences of using Roundup are:

1. It robs plants of nutrients, i.e. reduced uptake of manganese and other nutrients. This effect carries over to animals that consume the plants.

2. It reduces nitrogen fixation.

3. It increases the virulence of some pathogens and makes crops more susceptible to disease.

4. It kills beneficial soil organisms, and poisons the soil for all plants.

5. It increases lodging in crops.

6. It produces unfilled kernels in corn.

7. Weeds are becoming resistant and super-weeds are developing.

Huber showed examples in commercial production where glyphosate damage was severe, including crops where Roundup had not been applied for several years. In MN, 1000 acres of seed potatoes could not be certified because of excess glyphosate in the tubers, that came from growing Roundup Ready soybeans and spraying with Roundup the previous year. Lawsuits against Monsanto are in process in MN and ID regarding potatoes.

History teaches us that where societies have not taken care of the soil, the civilization fails. I don’t see the use of Roundup as a debatable issue. It is bad for the soil, our environment, our plants, our domestic and wild animals, human health, and our future. It’s a serious threat to the sustainability of agriculture and food production.

So what is the solution? We know Roundup should not be used! We know it is a serious matter. We know too that the answer begins with what we do in our own back yards. We owe it to our children and grandchildren to do what is right.

Have questions? Check out “Roundup” on the net and see for yourself. Read the 2010 Institute of Science in Society report, “Glyphosate Tolerant Crops Bring Diseases and Death.” It is replete with up-to-date references.

Winter Gardening and Season Extension Techniques

2010-10-02T20:59:00.003-05:00

If you get serious about winter gardens, I suggest you see Eliot Coleman’s books, The New Organic Grower and Four-Season Harvest. He lives and farms organically in Harborside, Maine. His books are excellent sources for all the details about winter gardening. In the meantime, here are a few guidelines based on my knowledge and experience.

The basic concept is to mesh the technology of climate modification using mini-tunnels with the biology of the crops that are suitable. Of course you can get fancy with heating and lighting, etc and grow almost anything the year around. What I am referring to for our area simply allows you to grow a few cold-weather crops longer into the fall/winter and to start some spring crops earlier than normal. In this area, I have experience with lettuce, radishes, spinach, mache, onions, broccoli, carrots, and potatoes. I suggest you try some late fall sowing, under cover (described below and referred to as mini-tunnels) with these crops and then sow again in late January. You won’t need the tunnels in our climate until November. If you try to use them too early in the fall or too late in the spring, they will heat up too much with the plastic cover in place.

It is not difficult to set up a small bed for growing a few crops. Here is the design and system for a mini-tunnel that works in this area. Supplies needed to make a 4x25-foot bed include:

1. 6 mil clear plastic. It comes in 10 and 20-foot wide strips. I buy it in a 100-foot roll.

2. 18 reinforcing rods, each piece 24 inches long, 3/8-inch diameter.

3. 9 pieces of ¾- inch (inside diameter) plastic tubing, each piece 7.0 feet long. You can buy it in rolls and cut it. This 7.0-foot length of tubing is designed for a bed that is 4 feet in width.

4. Boards, bricks, rocks, and straw to hold down the plastic. Maintaining the tunnel in strong winds is the biggest problem, and anchoring the plastic is the key.

5. Optional, but very desirable: Heat absorbing material inside the tunnel. I use one-gallon glass and plastic jugs, painted black, and filled with paramagnetic rock. It works great. The jugs pick up a lot of heat during the sunny days and dissipate it into the soil and tunnel at night. Set the jugs a couple inches deep into the soil. I use about 15 jugs for my 100-square foot garden bed. The magnetic energy absorbed by the paramagnetic rock is also used by the plants for increased growth.

The construction is easy:

1. Lay out exactly where the 18 reinforcing rods will be placed. Use a string to line them up on each side of the bed. Be sure they are the same distance apart across the beds. Try for 4-foot spacing. Pound the reinforcing rods about 18 inches deep into the soil on each side of the beds. That leaves about 6 inches sticking out to “hook” the plastic tubes. 3-foot spacing of the rods, along the sides of the bed works fine.

2. Place the 7.0-foot plastic tubes over the rods, to make the semi-circle frame.

3. Adjust the tubes so you have a uniform height and shape for all the tubes. This will help to provide a uniform surface with the plastic cover.

4. Cut the 10-foot wide plastic to desired length. Allow about 5 extra feet on each end for good anchoring.

5. If you are doing this alone, choose a calm day to install the plastic. Lay the plastic over the tubes. Anchor the windward side so that no wind can get under the plastic! This is important! First lay down some boards, bricks, rocks, etc. on the plastic. 2x6 planks work very well. Then cover that all up with a heavy layer of mulch or straw (wood chips are fine). Don’t leave any place for the wind to get under the plastic. Anchor the ends in a similar manner.

6. Remember that you are going to periodically open this up to work in the garden bed. So on the lee side (East, if you have N-S rows), I just anchor the plastic with 2x6 planks, weighed down with a few cement blocks. It works well to have a 4-6-inch layer of straw down in the pathway on the lee (east) side also. It will help in the winter when the soil is wet and you want to open the tunnel.

According to Eliot Coleman, a tunnel of this type will effectively move you to a climate that is about 1.5 hardiness zones to the south. For us that means a climate like mid-Louisiana. The real advantage is the ability to get started at least a month earlier in the spring. I use the mini-tunnel to start early seeds for lettuce, spinach, onions, cabbage, broccoli, and tomatoes. Some of the plants can be left in the tunnel and others can be transplanted to other beds when the time is appropriate.

Transplanting, Thinning and Mycorrhizae

2010-09-18T22:11:00.003-05:00

Thinning: We survived the heat and drought and now is the time to enjoy fall vegetable gardening. Hopefully your crops are growing and you are siting back and waiting....OOOOps! Not quite. I see a lot of gardens where carrot, beet, radish, spinach, lettuce, and turnip production is not good, simply because the crop was not thinned. The seeds are small and planted too close together, and then the plants are not thinned as required.

For the most part, the sooner you thin the better. Give the plants space to grow. I plant in 4-foot wide beds so I have blocks of vegetables. The number of rows is determined by the unique spacing required for each vegetable. In “How to Grow More Vegetables” by John Jeavons, there are spacing tables. This is an excellent guide, but I usually increase the spacing by an inch or two for the fall plantings. I want them to grow as fast as possible, and a little more space helps to get them to the market or table sooner. Here are a few spacings (in inches) that are good for the fall: Carrots - 4, Beets - 5, Radishes - 3, Spinach - 9, Turnips - 6, Lettuce - 6-12 (depends on variety).

Transplanting: Sometime I sow seeds very close together, with the idea that the small plants will all get transplanted. This works fine with beets, spinach and lettuce, and can be done at the two-leaf stage, when the plants are only an inch tall. Beets can be transplanted after they are several inches tall, but not as easily. Carrots can be transplanted but

the job requires a lot of careful placement and patience. With pelleted carrot seed, like I used this fall, the spacing is more uniform, and so little thinning or transplanting is needed.

Mycorrhizal Fungi: These are the good guys and you want them on your team. Over 90

percent of the plants known use them in a mutually beneficial manner. They are not visible with the naked eye, but are attached to plant roots. In a real sense they are root extensions -- bringing water and nutrients into the plant. A thimble full of healthy soil can contain several miles of fungal filaments.

An acre of healthy top soil can have 2500 pounds of mycorrhizal fungi. This is good organic matter.

Soil Tilth and Mycorrhizae Soil tilth is about good soil structure -- soils that work easily, don’t crust, and take in water and air. Soils with good tilth are said to be well-aggregated, with soil particles joined together in stable clusters.

A few years ago, A USDA microbiologist Sara Wright named the glue that holds the soil aggregates together. She called it “glomalin,” from the Glomales group of mycorrhizal fungi. This gooey protein comes from the tiny fungi filaments. Its a sticky glue that helps your soil in many ways.

Do you have the Glomales fungi species in your soil? Maybe, maybe not. They occur naturally in most undisturbed soil systems. But they can also be destroyed by some fungicides, and can be reduced by high rates of available phosphorus. If you are concerned your garden is lacking in mycorrhizae, go on line and order some. If you want some recommended sources, please contact me.

It goes without saying, but the organic route is an

excellent way to keep the good guys (Mycorrhizae) on your team.

Fall Cover Crops

2010-09-18T22:06:00.002-05:00

Time to Plant Beets and Carrots

The August heat and dry weather have made gardening a real challenge. Don’t be discouraged. As the weather gets a bit cooler, it will be time for rejuvenating the garden. Fall gardening can be easy and enjoyable. I am getting excited about planting my fall carrots and beets. They do well and are easy to grow. I will be starting mine the last week of August. This year I am using pelleted carrot seed. Its basically an organic coating on each individual seed. The value of pelleting lies in the ease of sowing the seeds in a much more uniform distribution, thus minimizing the thinning process. The coating dissolves quickly when placed in the soil. Pelleted seed is about the size of turnip seed.

If No Fall Veggies -- Plant a Cover Crop

We know it is important to build a healthy soil i.e., a soil that is alive, full of microbes, adequate minerals, and a reasonable organic matter level. Cover crops can be useful for reaching these goals. There are many choices. For simplicity in the fall, I have settled on two crops --Oats and Austrian Winter Peas. The peas have the advantage of

surviving the cold winters, growing again in the spring and fixing nitrogen in the soil. The oats has the advantage of quickly covering the site, and dying in the winter, thus leaving a heavy mulch cover that helps to curtail the development of winter weeds. I plant my early spring crops where I have the oats.

Oats and peas can be planted together, but the timing of the combination planting is tricky. If you plant the combination too early, the oats smothers out the peas. If you plant the oats too late, it does not make a dense stand, and the effectiveness as a mulch is minimal.

I use oats and peas, separately. By planting in early September, you should have a stand that looks like the peas (on the left) and the oats (on the right), by early November. They make a pretty sight.

Both oats and the peas are available locally, but generally only in 50 pound bags. I buy a bag and repackage for small garden plots. If you want some oats or peas, or information on how to sow, send me an email. I would be pleased to assist. Once you try these crops you will be hooked.

August -- the time for Fall Gardening

2010-09-18T22:01:00.001-05:00

PLAN AHEAD: Many summer vegetables are in full swing now, and it easy to forget that late August is a good time to plant some fall crops. Although the bugs can be a small problem in August plantings, I thoroughly enjoy the fall crops. Carrots and beets are my favorites. Fall carrots are generally superb and even sweeter than those grown in the spring/summer. Don’t forget about radishes, turnips, broccoli, kale, spinach, cabbage, etc. They will all do well.

If you are not planting a fall vegetable garden, then I recommend you plant a fall cover crop. This is an excellent step to help build a healthy soil, and to suppress winter weeds. It is very easy to do.

LEARNING MORE: Each year I do a few trials of new vegetable varieties. I have a nice loose, healthy soil and so this year I tried five varieties of carrots. The old standby Danvers did very well, as did Napoli and Mokum. I was not pleased with the carrot called Atomic Red. I really liked the flavor, smoothness, and length of a carrot called Sugarsnap, but it was the only one with a minor insect problem. I will try it again in August.

NEXT COURSE: I will be teaching an Organic Gardening course on August 14 and August 21. I do the summer course for those who want to do fall vegetable gardens and fall cover crops, or to get an early start for next spring. If you are interested please send me an email for the class announcement, and then get registered. I limit each class to 16 people, so they are likely to fill.

RAISED BEDS: As I write this we are getting what will be more than 7 inches of rain in the past 10 days. Although excess rain is rarely a problem in the summer, I have seen several gardens with problems, i.e. standing water. Raised beds have many advantages, and right now one of those advantages is very evident. My garden has not had any problem with the excessive rain. Raised beds saved the day.

Soil is a Living Organism

2010-09-18T21:58:00.001-05:00

A healthy soil is a living system, replete with important, “good guy” organisms. Whether it is vegetables, fruit trees, flowers, or forests, a community of living organisms (microbes) will exist. This soil food web consists of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, arthropods, protozota, earthworms, insects, and small vertebrates.

These organisms serve many functions:

1. They decompose organic compounds, including plant residue, manure, and some pesticides.

2. They transform the minerals into the proper forms for uptake by the plants. Think of them as the digestive system (stomach) for the plants. Its like this -- the microbes are the servants but they eat first, then the plants are served.

3. They fix nitrogen, enhance soil porosity, and prey on crop pests.

4. They hold nutrients in reserve, improve soil structure, increase water holding capacity, and increase carbon sequestration

5 Earthworms can actually turn over the top six inches of soil in 10 to 20 years, often moving large amounts of soil up from the lower strata and organic matter down to deeper layers.

These advantages and more are strong reasons for gardeners and farmers to go organic. Strong pesticides and chemical fertilizers impact the soil organisms negatively and work against the development of a healthy soil.

The numbers of the various soil organisms in a soil will depend on the crop and past

management practices. Bacteria and fungi will generally make up the bulk of the organisms. Forest soils have more organisms than prairie soils, followed by agriculture soils. In agriculture and garden soils, the

numbers increase with increased organic

matter, minimum tillage, and with the use of organic amendments.

The numbers of living organisms in healthy soils is astounding. A teaspoon of agriculture soil can contain up to 1 billion

bacteria, several yards of fungi, several thousand protozoa, and 20 nematodes. Add to that 100 arthropods and thirty

earthworms per square foot, and you have an acre of soil with the living biomass that weighs a ton or more.

Tomato Time: Those 15 inch tall tomatoes (in 2 gallon pots), that I planted in early May are growing at phenomenal rates. They are now 5 feet tall, and loaded with tomatoes. I am trying a new cherry tomato called “Riesentraube.” It looks like it will be PROLIFIC. Here on June 17, I estimate 600 tomatoes already on the plant. Will keep you posted.

Compost/Organic Matter Issues

2010-09-18T21:49:00.004-05:00

Using more compost than necessary can create gardening problems. Depending on the compost origin and amounts used, soil minerals can actually become excessive and unbalanced. Correct ratios of minerals in the soil are important. Practices like “Lasagna” and/or “Square-Foot” gardening call for large amounts of organic matter. These are practices that will generally not yield vegetables that are dense in nutrients. With an excess of soil nitrogen, you often get excessive vegetative growth and poor fruit and seed development. Excessive use of compost can also raise the P, K, and Ca levels to more than are needed. Remember, if you keep a healthy (non-chemical) soil, it will be moving in the direction of increasing the organic matter on its own, through all the natural processes.

I have dealt with these issues with gardeners this past month. The AR Soil Lab would not even do a soil test on “soil” sent in from one Square-Foot gardener. The Soil Lab reply was, “send us some mineral soil, not just the soil mulch.” This does not surprise me. The recommended Square-Foot gardening “soil” material is all derived from various kinds of organic matter.

I have looked at many materials for advice on application of compost. The book, How to Grow More Vegetables, by John Jeavons is certainly one of the best for organic/sustainable gardening approaches. John recommends, “a maximum maintenance dressing of ½ inch of compost should be added to the soil before the crop per 4-month growing season.” That is equivalent to 4 cubic feet per 100 square feet of garden bed. I only recommend using high quality, mature compost. Cheap compost that is not fully decomposed is generally not a bargain.

For new beds in our typical NW Arkansas soils (where soil depths can vary from 6 to 20 inches), I recommend that you begin by double digging. In such cases, I recommend that you put 2/3 inch of compost into the lower layer and 1/3 inch on the surface. That equates to 40 and 20 gallons on each respective layer per 100 square feet. So, as you begin, 1 cubic yard of soil is enough for more than 300 square feet.

Tomato Time Hopefully, you have set your tomatoes out and they are doing okay. If you buy plants in tiny pots, I always recommend that you first move them to larger pots. See they picture below. Both plants are of same age (7 weeks), but note the huge (more than doubled-size difference), when the one plant on the left was moved to a 2-gallon pot when the plant was 6 inches tall.

Raised Beds and Double-Digging

2010-09-18T21:42:00.002-05:00

You can follow organic gardening practices with or without raised beds. The advantages of raised beds are well worth the extra effort, especially in wet and/or cool springs. The biggest advantages are that they are better drained, better aerated, and warm up more quickly in the spring. If you have a wet and/or cool spring, like we have this year, the raised beds are very nice. Once formed, they also make planting, weeding and harvesting just a little easier.

When you think “raised beds” you might think in terms of building frames and bringing in extra soil. That is one option, but you can easily have raised beds without sideboards, simply by using the soil you have on the site. Whether to bring in extra top soil is usually determined by the depth of the top soil you have in place. With topsoil that is 12-18 deep, you can build 12-15 inch raised beds easily without bringing in soil.

I advise building raised beds in the process of double-digging the garden. I have shown many times, how double-digging jump starts the soil to becoming biologically active and healthy. There is no room for details here, but see Jeavons, “How to Grow More Vegetables” for details on double-digging.

Steve Moore, at University of North Carolina, described another value of double-digging where he compared old-style practices and double-dug beds, where he was teaching in South Africa. In the test with spinach, a heat wave occurred soon after establishment. In the old-style (conventional) plots, 99 percent of the plants died. In the double-dug plots, 1 percent of the plants died. Plants respond accordingly to the environment that is provided.

The 15- inch raised beds shown above were established in September and seeded with a cover crop of Austrian winter peas and oats. In reality, you can double-dig and build raised beds anytime of the year. Be sure moisture content is adequate, but not too wet, if you try to do it in mid-summer.

The GROW BIOINTENSIVE® approach of John Jeavons, which includes double-digging, is not something new. It is used around the world. The Manor House Agriculture Center in Kenya has graduated 400 trainers over the past 25 years, and the practices are being used by millions around the world. This is a significant movement. The World Bank, UN-FAO, and others have recently stated that small-scale farming may hold the solution to the world hunger problem. It is also true, that our continued conventional path is damaging to the environment and not sustainable.

Each of us has the ability to be part of the solution to the world hunger challenges in the world today. We just need to start! If it is a question about how to get started with growing a few vegetables, I am always available to help.

How to Identify NUTRIENT-DENSE Produce - BRIX it!

2010-09-18T21:38:00.002-05:00

It seems a long way off to picking vine-ripened, scrumptious, tasty tomatoes, but now is the time to prepare for that event. The taste that you are after is very much dependent on getting the soil organic matter, microbial populations, and all the minerals in the proper amounts and ratios. When you get all the numbers “right,” the result will be tomatoes that are tasty and NUTRIENT DENSE.

A nutrient density index can be measured with a refractometer. It measures the sugar/mineral content in units called “BRIX.” It’s an easy process that involves extracting a few drops of plant juice, from either the leaves or the fruit. When BRIX levels are high, the minerals are abundant, taste is superb, shelf life is extended, insect and disease problems are greatly reduced, and the plants are more winter hardy.

This issue of nutritional quality of produce is not a new concern. USDA alerted the public to the declining quality of produce in 1936. (This is not a typo). It made the news and was actually read into Senate Document 264.

If this subject is new to you, you can get additional information by checking out “high brix gardens,” or www.nutrient-dense.info. In the future, we are likely to see produce marketed on the basis of the BRIX readings. That will benefit the consumer.

The first North American Conference on Nutrient-Dense produce will take place in Wisconsin, Nov

7-8, 2010. High BRIX production goes beyond standard organics. Research has been done, and many farmers and gardeners are on board.

You cannot assume that your produce will have a high brix reading, just because it looks good. Only by doing a BRIX test (or other expensive type of nutrient analysis) will you know the nutrient density value for your produce. Here is an example with green beans of why the nutrient density issue is so critical. It was reported in June, 2007 Acres U.S.A. magazine by Jon Frank.

Rating Sample #1 Sample #2

Brix Rating 4.2 6.1

Dry Matter 8.1% 16.6%

Protein 1.75 g 3.34 g

Calcium 70mg 130 mg

Magnesium 30mg 50mg

Phosphorus 40mg 80 mg

Potassium 190mg 580mg

Copper 0.1 mg 0.4 mg

Iron 1.3 mg 2.1 mg

Zinc 0.7 mg 2.3 mg

Manganese 0.29 mg 0.35 mg

The data speak for themselves. By going from BRIX readings of 4 to 6, dry weight, protein content, and nutrient density essentially doubled. I have tested many vegetables from stores and gardens in the area and many are in the 4 (poor) range. I know from my own garden that by moving up to the 8 and 12 range (Good) the vegetables taste is noticeably improved.

What you do now will determine the taste of that summer tomato. It starts by getting a soil test, and adding appropriate amendments.

Parachutes, Dots, and Biodynamic Gardening

2010-09-18T21:25:00.003-05:00

To New Master Gardeners: The 50 previous articles I have written for Garden Thyme cover a wide array of organic gardening topics and are posted on my website www.harmonygardens.blogspot.com If growing your own vegetables and organic gardening interests you, see me for details. I cover a lot of material in the 8-hour course that I teach on organic gardening. For more information, send me an email.

This year I will delve more deeply into topics that I have previously covered. Whatever the topic, I will try to be clear and straight forward. Here are some topics on my list for 2010: the soil food web, mycorrhizae and glomalin, humus and humic acid, diatomaceous earth, soil cation exchange capacity, and soil energy. Stay tuned.

Parachutes and Dots: “The mind is like a parachute. It only works when it is open.” It is easy to pass this saying off as applying to someone other than ourselves. To keep an open and stretched mind, I often look into unfamiliar topics. New knowledge on unfamiliar subjects can help to broaden provide a different perspective. It can also serve to help “connect the dots” on familiar topics. An appropriate topic in this mind-stretching vein is that of Biodynamic Gardening.

Biodynamic Gardening (BG): One common question is, “how does BG differ from organic gardening?” If we think of the original gardening practices, we could call them all “organic.” There were no refined chemicals, pesticides and GMOs. For eons the “organic” practices were the “conventional” practices.

The current, so called “conventional” practices (of the past 75 years), are really in their infancy and we are now seeing many changes away from them. Some say that the conventional gardening/farming of the past 75 years, with emphasis on use of refined chemicals, will go down in history as a short-term fad.

Despite the facts of the long term history in organics, today’s short-term orientation puts “organic gardening” as beginning in the 1940s with Rodale and others. It has never been considered a well-defined, single, procedural practice. It’s holistic and complex. It followed some of the practices of BG. Rudolf Steiner, considered the official originator of BG, gave his first lectures on the topic as early as 1912. In 1924, a group of farmers and others concerned with the depletion of soils, and deterioration in crops and livestock, asked Steiner what might be done. His 8 lectures, often called the Agriculture Course, addressed the uniquely healing, ecological, and spiritual approach to sustainable care of the earth.

BG centers on the garden or farm as a self-contained organism, embedded in the living landscape of the Earth, which itself is embedded in the energies of the cosmos. The BG practices embody integrating plants and animals, recycling nutrients, and working with the stars and seasons, as well as spiritual realities. The central core practices involve nine “homeopathic” preparations to enhance soil quality and stimulate plant life. Another mainstay in the program is the use of the Cosmic calendar, i.e. planting by the signs. I like the one called Stella*Natura, published by Kimberton Hills. Whether you use these techniques or not, you might just find them worthy of study. It might just help you in keeping your parachute open. Think of it as exercise – stretches for the mind.

Agriculture-Nutrition History

2009-12-20T22:02:00.001-06:00

Calvin F.Bey CFBey1936@cox.net

Agriculture history goes back thousands of years to the time when the hunter-gatherer people began planting seeds and tending their crops. Although archeologists can trace some of the early agriculture history through seeds, it is the written material of the past 100-200 years that gets most of our attention. So what are the standout agriculture "discoveries" of the past 100 years? History books list machines, genetics, fertilizers, pesticides, and some cultural techniques. No doubt there have been some revolutionary changes, but, unfortunately, little attention has been paid to the integration of basic concepts into holistic systems. What has happened along these lines?

We might begin by asking, "What do Drs. William A. Albrecht, Royal Lee, Cary Reams, Weston A. Price, and Sir Albert Howard have in common?" These were holistic scientists, working in the 1930s, 40s and 50s, establishing the relationships between soils, farming practices, and consumer health. They answered many questions of their day, and in "alternative agriculture" circles today, their approaches and conclusions have great value. If you sum up their contributions in one diagram, it is the following:

Healthy Soils Healthy

Plants Healthy Produce (High

Brix) Healthy Consumers

Dr. William A. Albrecht, a distinguished and well respected soil scientist, worked at the University of Missouri. He wrote volumes of papers, including a major summary on organic matter and nitrogen for the 1938 Yearbook of Agriculture. His studies showed that farming with corn, wheat and oats, (without the addition of manure) drastically reduced the soil organic matter. He showed how nitrogen became depleted, how it related to other minerals, and how it could be maintained and restored. His studies also included how mineral depleted soils adversely affected the plants and health of the animals that ate them.

In a similar vein, many other scientists did essentially the same thing -- showed the relationship of the soil to the health of the plants and the consumers. While this is not a foreign concept, it is rarely the emphasis in commercial agriculture today.

So if this information was so valuable, why was it not incorporated into best-management practices? Unfortunately, the answer lies in the fact that promotion of new products (commercial fertilizers and pesticides) actually pushed out the holistic concepts. In some cases, as with Albrecht, holistic scientists were criticized, demoted, and told to curtail their research. Chemical companies grabbed control of the commercial agriculture industry.

My point in this article is that much of the older research is as valid today as when it was published. Ignoring much of it for generations has not been in the best interest of consumers' health. At the root of fixing health care problems today is the remineralization of our soils. It seems to be a difficult lesson for us to learn. I wonder why. Maybe some reflection on and study of agriculture history would be useful.

Biochar - What is it all about?

2009-10-30T22:26:00.002-06:00

Biochar is a fine-grained highly porous charcoal. It can be made from any organic material high in carbon, like wood, switch grass, or many others. It is produced by pyrolysis or gasification, essentially baking biomass in the absence of oxygen. Indigenous people often make charcoal by burning wood covered with a layer of soil.

Some time ago I read in National Geographic a very interesting story about the rich black, man-made soils that were discovered in Amazon Basin in Brazil. These 6-foot deep soils were called Terra Preta, meaning "dark earth" in Portuguese. They were unusual in that after several thousand years of heavy rainfall and continuous forest production, the soils were still deep, rich and productive. These soils were in sharp contrast to the soils on adjacent lands where the natural soils were acidic and depleted of minerals. That story left me with a one big question, "How could we recreate soils like that?"

For those keeping up with new agriculture developments, you know that the question has been addressed and the current interest in biochar is high. Although relatively few scientists are addressing associated issues, an international conference is planned for November. Interest has been prompted by those wanting to use biochar to increase soil productivity, and those looking for a way to reduce carbon dioxide levels in the air.

Those studying the original Terra Preta soils believe the indigenous people actually made low-temperature charcoal and added it to the soil. The carbon in biochar resists degradation and thus stays in the soil for centuries. As a rule we think of charcoal coming from wood. In reality, it can come from anything high in carbon, even chicken litter. That is why Tyson is interested in making biochar.

A series of early experiments have demonstrated that biochar does great things for the soil. It provides some nutrients, reduces leaching of nutrients, improves water holding capacity, increases microbial activity, moderates soil acidity, stimulates nitrogen fixation, and in the process increases plant growth. One article talks about it being effective to remove contaminants (heavy metals, pesticides, oil, etc) from the soil. Another dimension, which has not been addressed, is the fact that burned material has an increased paramagnetic value. Because of this, the soil microbes and the plants benefit from increased magnetic energy.

Like variability in compost quality that I wrote about last month, all biochar is not alike. The quality depends on the processes used in manufacture.

In short, I am excited to hear what is happening on this topic. It may or may not turn out to be practical. I have joined an International Biochar study group to keep posted on the subject. I will be looking for a supply of biochar and doing some testing and demonstrations. As this all develops, stay tuned. If you have extensive knowledge about the topic, outside contacts, and /or a keen interest, let me know.

Compost Evaluation and Winter Worms

2009-09-22T01:27:00.002-05:00

The Washington County Fair is mentioned elsewhere in this issue, so I won't dwell on it here. It was fun to work with many Master Gardeners, and to meet folks bringing in vegetables. Above all else, the real highlight of the Fair was to see the delight of 5-year old Oliver, who had entered a sunflower seed head. He proudly told me how he had planted it, watered it, and now it had won a ribbon. The color of the ribbon was not important. The beaming smile on his face was proof positive that the fair was a rewarding experience for him. That genuine sense of awe that comes from a youngster partnering with Nature and following through is what I will long remember about this year's Fair.

Compost Quality—All compost is not alike! Even though it is all derived from organic material, it can be very different in quality. Quality of compost is determined by what goes into the pile and the process itself. High quality compost is microbial diverse, stable, and mature. If you are buying compost, ask for some kind of an analysis that addresses these factors.

Microbial Diversity -- In addition to compost being full of nutrients, you should expect your compost to be high in microbial diversity. These microbes will include bacteria, fungi, actinomycetes, and Pseudomonas. These organisms are there to digest the organic matter in the soil, make the minerals available for the plants, and help to detoxify the soil. Compost with high microbial diversity will be more complete and responsive in its role of ameliorating the fluctuating and stress situations in the soil.

Compost stability refers to the degree to which the organic matter has been decomposed into more stable materials. In stable composts, the rate of further decomposition is very low and very little carbon dioxide is being given off. If you buy compost that contains large pieces of organic matter, or if it still heats up, you do not have high stability compost.

Compost maturity is another way of evaluating compost quality. It is a measure of how toxic the compost is when tested on germinating seeds. Immature composts contain more growth inhibiting compounds like salts, phenolic compounds, ammonia, and organic acids. Look for composts that are very fine and granular.

Winter Worms – If you are using red wigglers to eat your garbage, then start to think about how you will help them survive over the winter. If your worm box gets below 40 degrees, you may lose worms and they will not be eating very much garbage. I leave some worms outside for the winter, but I cover them heavily with straw and other materials. I also put many worms into the proper worm medium in 20-gallon containers and bring many in to my furnace room. It is convenient for feeding them the peelings and other kitchen scraps over the winter, and they survive and reproduce very well.

Soil Testing Time

2009-09-22T01:26:00.002-05:00

It's a good idea to get a late summer soil test, and apply appropriate fertilizers with the fall/winter cover crops. Over the past 5 years I have looked at hundreds of Arkansas Soil Test Reports for gardens. I am aware that many gardeners, who get the soil test, don't fully understand the report. And further, many gardeners have a still harder time making the necessary calculations to figure out what organic fertilizers to use and how much to apply on their beds. It's not my goal to try to explain all the details in this article, but as some of you move to organics, and are using the Arkansas Soil Test, here are some guidelines.

Taking Soil Samples: First, get some soil boxes from the Extension Service. If your garden is small and fairly uniform, one sample will be sufficient. That pint box should be filled with soil from subsamples taken from 5-10 different places in the garden. Don't include the coarse material on the soil surface. Take those subsamples from the 2-6 inch layer of soil. For larger and/or more variable gardens, include more samples. When submitting the samples, explain specifically that you want a test for Nitrogen. The test results will take 2-3 weeks, so plan ahead.

Interpreting the Soil Test Report: Compared with some other states, I really like the Arkansas test results. They do the analysis of 11 different elements and give the results for each element in actual pounds per acre. I have also checked and the Lab results are consistent, i.e. we get the same results from duplicate samples from the same soil. They also provide the soil pH and the estimated base saturation (i.e. the soil Cation Exchange Capacity). The CEC is a measure of the positive minerals (Ca, Mg, K, and Na) in the soil that are attached to the clay and humus particles. For growing nutrient dense produce, you should have those elements in specific ratios.

The soil pH measures the acidity or the alkalinity (i.e. sweet or basic) of the soil. Soil pH of 7.0 is neutral. Lower numbers are acidic and higher numbers are alkaline. For most vegetables, strive for a pH of 6.4 (slightly acidic). Some plants like blueberries, azaleas, and rhododendrons like a more acid soil. Lime raises the pH. Sulfur, sulfates and acetic acid (vinegar) will lower the pH.

Caution: There are some things in the report that are superfluous: Under the Nutrient Availability Index section you will see concentrations in ppm. That means parts per million, and is the number that the Lab determines from their chemical analysis. If you multiply the ppm by 2 you get the pounds per acre. It is based on the assumption that an acre of soil (7 inches deep) weighs 2 million pounds. As a gardener, you have no need to use the ppm values.

You will also have an Estimated Soil Texture name, which is not a real soil texture measurement. It comes from looking at the CEC, which comes from the amount of clay and humus in the soil. The higher the CEC, the more likely you will get a soil texture classification of "clay." You can get the same classification with highly organic soils without any clay in the soil. Just ignore the soil texture name provided.

Be alert that the recommendations for application of Nitrogen are not specific to your soil. I have 6 recent Soil Reports with corresponding rates for Nitrogen of 0, 54, 62, 214, 262 and 596 pounds per acre, and the recommendation for adding nitrogen is identical in all of them. The fact that you get a recommendation for nitrogen, even when they do not do a nitrogen test, should put you on high alert that this recommendation is not meaningful.

Critical Numbers: More than anything else, I look at the pounds per acre for each of the 11 elements. How do you know what the "right" pounds per acre numbers should be? I have spent a lot of time analyzing that tough question. Because I am most interested in recommendations that are developed for growing nutrient dense produce, I have had to go to another source outside of Arkansas for the answers. Pounds per acre numbers for nutrient dense produce have been developed, originally by Dr. Cary Reams, and subsequently by many others. Unfortunately, the Arkansas soil test methodology (the Mehlich 3 system) is different than the soil tests used by Reams and others (the Morgan soil test system). In essence, a stronger acid is used for extraction of the elements in the Mehlick 3 system.

To figure out the corresponding pounds per acre numbers for nutrient dense produce for the Arkansas test, I have collected soil samples, mixed them very well, split them in two parts, and sent each part of the sample to the Arkansas Soil Laboratory and a private laboratory (International Ag Labs) that does the Morgan test and has the pound per acre numbers for growing nutrient dense produce. With the pounds per acre numbers from 17 split samples from both labs, I have now derived estimates of pounds per acre needed for each element that are most appropriate for the Arkansas test. This project is continuing.

As a rule, the soil tests will reveal 3 to 5 elements that need adjusting. I have seen the test results and there are big differences in pounds per acre for elements among different garden soils. Without the soil test, making fertilizer recommendations is simply a guess. Don't gamble with your garden. Above all, don't start adding fertilizers indiscriminately to new garden areas with native soils. I have seen several examples where the gardener "ruined" the soil by over fertilizing. As a rule, new soils, even if they are low in nutrients, can be easily adjusted. Get the soil test, and if you want help in deciding what organic fertilizers to apply, please contact me.

Fall Gardening - Nutrition Matters

2009-09-22T01:24:00.002-05:00

Fall gardens: August is the time to get some vegetables and fruits ready for the Fair, which begins on August 31. It's also the time to get the fall vegetable garden established and plan for a cover crop for the winter. For the cover crops, I use Oats and/or Austrian Winter Peas. You probably won't find them in less than 50 pound bags. I will have oats and peas available in small bags for 100 to 500 square feet areas. If interested in a small amount, let me know. Both of those cover crops should be planted in early September.

For the fall vegetable garden, I plant beets, carrots, broccoli, cabbage, Swiss chard, lettuce, radishes and turnips. Although it will still seem very much like summer, mi to late August is the time to begin fall gardens. Only a few nurseries will have broccoli and cabbage plants available, and they don't last long. If you want to grow your own, start them in early August. I plant seeds of these in the garden and then transplant them later. Because these are cool weather crops, they will benefit from a little afternoon shade.

Nutrition matters: For the majority of the time that I spend helping other organic gardeners, I deal with questions regarding the re-mineralization of the soil (fertilization). Growing vegetables is not the same as growing vegetables with high nutrition, which I advocate. In a good fertilizer regime all the minerals needed for good growth and nutrition are there in their proper amounts. What to apply depends on what is already in the soil. Without a soil test, it's pretty much a guess. Sometimes it is an easy process to get the correct amounts and ratios, but in general the process of getting all the minerals and ratios correct takes several years.

Boron is more than a minor element. It is fortunate that in our Arkansas Soil Test program we get a test for the mineral or element called boron. Like many minerals, boron does not act independent of other minerals. It is closely tied with calcium, and in fact calcium will not provide its many benefits if boron is in short supply. It begins with its role in photosynthesis, i.e. the production of sugar. Next, it plays a critical role in releasing sugar to the root system each night. This sugar exudes from the roots and feeds the microbes in the rhizophere, which in turn helps to fix nitrogen, make phosphorus soluble, recycle minerals from crop residues, remove toxins, produce growth stimulants, and protect the plant from pathogens. All this and more is partially dependent on the correct amount of boron.

Although the Arkansas Soil Test program provides the pounds per acre of boron in the soil, there are no recommendations given for adding boron, even if the values for boron are zero. It is important that you look at this number on your soil test report each year and add boron if needed. Boron is a mineral that is leached from the soil, especially in soils low in organic matter.

You can fix the boron deficiency problem easily by simply adding borax (yes, the Twenty Mule Team product). Four pounds of boron per acre is adequate. Do not over supply, especially in calcium deficient soils. Borax is 12 percent boron, so for each pound per acre that you are deficient in boron, add 1 Tablespoon of borax per 100 square feet. Mix it in water, apply, and water it in. It can also go on as a foliar spray, and is especially helpful if done prior to flowering.

Boron is not just for the welfare of the plants and the soil. Animal and human health nutritionists now know that it serves in a diverse range of functions in animals and humans. A shortage in the diet can lead to health issues. It all begins with having it in the soil. Want to read more about this, check it out on the internet. See nutri-tech.com.au for starters.

Heirlooms, Hybrids, and Genetically Modified Organisms

2009-07-01T00:04:00.002-05:00

Heirlooms: If you have been a vegetable gardener for a long time, some old, standard varieties of seeds will likely come to mind. Detroit Dark Red Beets, Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage, Danvers Half Long Carrots, Country Gentleman Sweet Corn, Oak Leaf Lettuce, and Brandywine Tomatoes are likely to be on your list of known varieties. These listed varieties all have one thing in common. They were all selected and named in seed catalogues in 1900 or before. They all result from plants that are randomly, open-pollinated (not deliberately crossed as in hybrids), and were likely in certain families and local localities for many years before introduced for sale. We call these kinds of seeds "heirlooms," and there are thousands of them listed in seed catalogues and in seed storage facilities, and many more still unnamed. They are a valuable genetic resource for the present and for future generations

Hybrids are simply the result of deliberate crossing of certain selected lines. They are the result of natural breeding processes that have been used for thousands of years. Hybrids are generally not as broadly adapted (narrower genetic base) as open-pollinate, heirloom varieties, but they can have some very desirable characteristics. They are often promoted for their disease resistance potential. Hybrids are acceptable in the USDA certified organic grower's program.

GMOs: While one could say that hybrids are genetically modified seed, in today's lexicon, Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) refers to DNA material that has been randomly inserted into a species, at the cell level. The procedure has only been used commercially for the last ten years. It is highly mutagenic and routinely breeches genera barriers. In the USDA organic certification program, the GMOs are NOT allowed.

Why the opposition to GMOs in the organic certification program? There are three major reasons for the opposition. The GMO crops have not been fully tested for their propensity to invade and affect other plant species in the environment in which they are planted. Second, they have not been tested for ability to effect human health. And third, where planted they impose a threat to polluting open-pollinated and heirloom varieties. This is an issue of major social injustice by big seed and chemical companies "invading" developing countries with GMOs and contaminating their long-standing, reliable native varieties. The relatively poor and helpless farmers and peasants are at the mercy of the invading companies. The video, "The Future of Food" explains this very well. Watch too for a movie coming soon called "Food, Inc."

Of course there is controversy on the issues. Big companies advocate that they can feed the world through higher production yields with GMOs. The Union of Concerned Scientists analyzed 12 studies and indicates otherwise. To paraphrase, "The several thousand field trials over the last 20 years for genes aimed at increasing operational yields of major food/feed crops show no increase in yield with the exception of Bt corn."

Perhaps the most direct effect of GM food is how they might influence human health. The studies to verify that GM foods are safe for humans have not been done. Many studies have been done on animals and the results are scary. Serious health risks associated with GMOs include infertility, immune dysfunction, accelerated aging, protein formation, and changes in the liver, kidney and spleen. It is clear that there is much more to food safety than just the nutritional quality. The American Academy of Environmental Medicine is very concerned about this safety issue and has just released a position paper stating, "Because of the mounting data, it is biologically plausible for Genetically Modified Foods to cause adverse health effects in humans." Among several items, they are asking, "Physicians to educate their patients, the medical community, and the public to avoid GM foods when possible and provide educational materials concerning GM foods and health risks."

Consumers can hardly avoid eating some GM foods today. Much of the corn, rice and soybeans grown today is derived from GMO seed. You can minimize GM food intake by sticking to organic products, buying locally and growing your own vegetables. More and more folks are doing just that.

For those wanting to see the studies referenced, see aaemoonline.org/gmopost.html.

Free Nitrogen

2009-05-14T23:04:00.002-05:00

Economic crisis or not, we generally like to get things "free." Sometimes there are strings attached and what appears to be free is not such a great deal. Among the thousands of natural phenomena, there are some amazing processes that give us "free" products. The process of photosynthesis is an example. It includes the use of free carbon dioxide, free sun energy, and free rain, all working in connection with a lot of natural minerals. The result is system that makes our food. It can work just fine without any input from us. I guess it is our nature, but we have a tendency to want to control the processes and take credit for things that come naturally.

We know that plants need nitrogen for growing. The nitrogen used by plants does not all come from the soil. The air is 75 percent nitrogen and plants utilize some of it on routine basis. It actually moves into the plant through the stomata, just as does the carbon dioxide. Beyond using the atmospheric nitrogen for growth, some plants are able to take that nitrogen and "fix" it in the soil. The biggest group of nitrogen fixing plants comes from the legume family, which includes peas, beans, peanuts, vetch, black locust trees, and many more.

The nitrogen fixation process is actually a little more complex in that it requires the help of Rhizobium bacteria, which are found naturally in the soil. Caution! Soils that that have had a lot of abuse through the use of high salt fertilizers and pesticides may not contain the necessary bacteria. Without the bacteria, no nitrogen will be fixed. Fortunately, you can purchase the bacteria to re-inoculate bacteria-deficient soils.

I use Austrian winter peas as one of my primary winter cover crops. I plant the peas in September and they grow about 12 inches tall in the fall and then begin to grow again in the spring. By early May they are 2 feet tall and beginning to flower. When they begin to bloom, I cut them off and either leave them right in place for garden mulch, or use them for compost, or sometimes feed them to my red wiggler worms. Corn is heavy user of nitrogen and does very well where the peas have grown.

I dig up some pea plants each fall and spring to see if they are producing nitrogen. The presence of nitrogen is easily detected by the whitish-pink nodules on the roots. The amount of nitrogen that is being "fixed" in my garden appears to be growing each year. The peas are profusely loaded with nodules this spring. I expect there is 100 - 200 pounds of nitrogen per acre on the roots. The picture below with the Austrian winter peas and the nodules show just how the nitrogen fixing system works.

In addition to the accumulation of nitrogen on the roots, the biomass of the vegetation is huge. I weighed a sample of the Austrian winter peas from my garden and estimate that I have 13 tons of organic matter (green weight) per acre. Our farming ancestors knew the value of nitrogen fixing cover crops, crop rotations, green manures, and other similar systems. The same is true of many current alternative and organic gardeners/farmers, the Amish, and others. These are the practices that lead to more sustainable farming.

The real plus in the cover crop-rotational system is that the nitrogen produced in this way is in an organic form and is released slowly, often just the way the plant needs it. It's another example of how important it is to understanding the workings of Nature. This "free" nitrogen story is about as good as it gets in Nature.

Tuning in to Nature

2009-05-14T23:00:00.002-05:00

Tuning In To Nature is the title of a book by Philip S. Callahan, Ph.D. (a University of Arkansas grad). The book is about infrared radiation and insect communication systems, and it deals with how insects are equipped to search out and attack weak plants. The plants emit specific electromagnetic radiation frequencies and certain insects are tuned in and attracted to those plants. Those antennae on the male cercropia moth (shown below) are not there for decoration, but for the functional sensing. This whole concept is a logical step from what starts as one of the Laws of Nature. Stated succinctly, this Law says "The Default Position in Nature is Health." Putting it another way, "Plants are Designed to be Healthy."

So how does that Law fit with insects and disease? Is it insects and disease that cause plants to be unhealthy? No. Plants are unhealthy because of stress caused by toxins or by mineral/biological deficiencies, which are generally soil problems. Excess minerals can also act as toxins. With that stated, it makes sense that insect and disease are the symptoms, not the problems. In fact, the corollary to the Law is this: "Insects and disease are the Appropriate Response to the Existing Conditions." They are the garbage collectors, the cleanup crew, appropriately taking care of the weak and waste in biological systems. When we approach the growing of plants in this manner, we tune in to nature and begin to cooperate with nature rather than try to control it.

The take home, practical lesson from understanding this is very simple. Apply the Hippocratic oath: "First, do no harm." In practice, first and foremost, don't apply toxins to the plants or the soil. Second, strive to fix the soil mineral/biological deficiency conditions. We can see what happens if we do otherwise. By applying toxins (chemical pesticides), the plant/soil system is weakened and insects and disease appears. So then we apply more chemicals (toxins) to kill the insects and pathogens, and the vicious, downward cycle continues. It's what many folks in alternative agriculture refer to as rescue chemistry. There are thousands of acres under alternative systems to demonstrate that farming/gardening does not have to be done that way.

The insect and disease phenomenon, as described above, is one example where organic and conventional garden/farming are viewed differently. I know from much experience that the concept is new to many gardeners. If it strikes you as a new idea and different from how you have always viewed insects and diseases, I hope you give the topic some study and thought. Take some time to digest the significance. It is a well accepted concept in the eco-agriculture arena, the place where gentle-on-the-land, low input, and sustainable farming practices abound.

More than ever before, I am getting questions about how to get started in organic gardening. I suggest, that even without knowing all things you need to do, make a commitment and begin. Vow to NOT use the pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Next, start concentrating on creating a healthy soil. That may involve compost, raised beds, minimum tillage, cover crops, and natural fertilizers. The important thing is to get started. We have all made some mistakes, and will make more in the future, but do not let that deter you. One thing is certain. If you stick with it, the organic adventure will serve you and society very well. You will be surprised how you can improve your soil in a few short years. Ask me for advice if you need it.

The Organic Gardening F. A. S. T. E. R. Introduction

2009-03-22T21:50:00.004-06:00

As you begin your gardening activities this year, I encourage you to switch in the direction of using practices that are more organic, more nutrient-dense for vegetables, and more sustainable. This article sets the stage for gardening with some general conceptual material. F.A.S.T.E.R. is simply the acronym for the key words in my 2009 organic gardening course introduction. It sets the stage for sharing of ecological principles and organic gardening practices.

F is for Forgiveness.
In regards to gardening, it is the direction you are headed that is really important, not how organic or sustainable your practices have been in the past. Though we are all at different points on the "organic scale," comparisons are unnecessary. I like to think of everyone at the same starting line. Forget the past and think about the future. Don't feel guilty if you have not used organic gardening practices in the past. Forgive yourself of past practices; don't live with the past as a burden, and save your energy for increased efforts in your new and/or continuing goals.

A is for Adventure. Think and practice organic gardening as an adventure. It is an adventure that includes learning, discovery, surprises, Laws of Nature, sharing, fun, community building, and more. Organic gardening is not a "project" like washing the car, with a definite beginning and ending point. It is complex, diverse and often challenging. The adventure develops it own persona, it pulses with the moon and the seasons, and it never ends. For us the gardeners, it is about our development and relationship to Nature. The adventure is meant to be enjoyed.

S is for Soil.
Organic gardening is built on the premise of the development of a healthy soil. I like to say that organic garden is all about health care. From that healthy soil, comes healthy plants, healthy produce and healthy consumers. The journey though the various stages will vary in time, space, and complexity of the gardening practices, but there is no substitute for the building of the proper foundation of a healthy soil.

T is for Time.
The time for converting to organics is now, not later. There is a real urgency. Soil is a finite resource. Yes, it can be developed, but it continues to be depleted and polluted. For the US, the USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service reports that we are still losing soil at the rate of almost 1 percent per year. Our average original top soil depth of 20 inches is now down to 7 inches, and at current erosion rates will be 3.5 inches in 100 years. Our average original soil organic matter content of 5 to 10 percent is now less than 2 percent. In Arkansas, it now averages 1.25 percent. The well being and standard of living for our civilization is directly dependent on this finite soil resource. Bluntly stated, continued depletion and pollution will lead to the collapse of our civilization as we now know it. It's happened in other places and it can happen here. The clock is ticking.

E is Everything Else.
After the stated urgency and focus on the development of a healthy soil, everything else is details. Paying attention to the details is important. In organic gardening there are some substitution practices and self-correcting systems, but if we don't pay attention to the details, we can find ourselves working against the Laws of Nature, rather than with them. For example, when working for the ultimate goal of producing nutrient dense produce, all the soil nutrient amounts and ratios need to be correct. The numbers are not right until all the numbers are right.

R is for Rewards. The rewards for being an organic gardener are as diverse and complex as the gardening is itself. They begin with the self-satisfaction that you are being gentle on the land. They come with the feeling of being a cooperator with Nature, and as you begin to understand that in Nature the default position is Health. The rewards come with new understandings of natural relationships and in the sharing of new knowledge. The rewards are there when your bare hands are covered with soil, and when you bite into the first-pulled carrot or when you sit down with friends to enjoy fresh sweet corn. They come in unexpected times and places.

Calcium: More than a Soil Sweetener

2009-03-07T18:13:00.002-06:00

Calcium (Ca), number 20 in the Periodic Table, is the element that we think about when our soil is acidic (pH is low) and it needs some sweetening. Lime (calcium carbonate) is the usual material for this correction. Yet Ca is much more than a bag of lime for a soil with a sweet tooth. In the first place, Ca is not the only element that sweetens the soil and raises the pH. Magnesium (Mg), potassium (K), and sodium (Na) are also positive ions that also serve in a similar capacity. Soils can be high in K and Na, and give a high pH, and be deficient in Ca. Soil pH is technically the measure of the hydrogen ion concentration, which is really a reciprocal of the calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium ions.

Why is Ca often called the king of the nutrients by the holistic eco-gardeners? It's the king because it is so prevalent in plant tissue, and so vital in many of the growth and development processes in plants. In short, it is involved in plant membrane permeability, cell wall structure, enzyme activities, and in interaction with photohormones. Like every element that a plant needs, Ca does not act strictly on its own. Ca must be in the correct amount and in the correct ratio with other elements for the production of nutrient-dense produce.

One important ratio is that of the nutrients of Ca and Mg. Strive for a ratio of 7:1 or slightly greater. Too much Ca will cause Mg, phosphorous and minor element deficiency. Too much Mg results in compacted soils, and phosphorous, potassium and nitrogen deficiencies. Another little fact; without boron, Ca uptake and utilization is inhibited. If your soil tests show that no boron is present, add borax to bring it up to the 4 pounds per acre level.

All "liming" materials are not alike. If you are adding lime, choose one that fits your garden soil needs. Don't count on all local suppliers of lime to understand the differences. Read the labels. Of several "liming" materials that are available, here are the percent averages of the various elements.

____________________________________________________________________

High calcium limestone 38 % Ca

Dolomite 22% Ca 14%Mg

Epsom salt – Magnesium sulfate 10% Mg 14% Sulfur

Calcium sulfate – Gypsum 22% Ca 18% Sulfur

Sul-Po-Mag 11% Mg 9% Sulfur 21% Potassium

On your Soil Test Report, the Estimated Base Exchange (%) is given, but rarely explained or used by gardeners. It refers to the soil's ability to hold plant nutrients. This is called the Cation Exchange Capacity, and it is the relative amounts of Ca, Mg, K, and Na, ions held in the soil. For those elements, I like to see numbers of 68, 12, 5, and 1 percent, respectively. Generally, when you get to these levels, your soil pH will be in the ideal area of 6.4. That is a slightly acidic soil, in which the microorganism are fully active and the plants are able to use the elements.

Fixing the Ca levels is just one step in the balancing of nutrients for your soil. I start by looking at the pounds per acre of Ca, and the ratio of Ca:Mg. Then, if needed, I decide what "liming" fertilizer is best for the situation. The process is often not a simple formula or cookie-cutter approach. I try to error on the side of adding too little rather than too much. The processes of Nature are complex and corrective, always striving to adjust the soil that leads to healthy plants. Of course that is done most effectively when the soil is free of toxic chemicals. Making the soil amendment adjustments slowly puts me in the camp of working with Nature, not acting like I am the one in control. In the long run, that strategy gives the best results.

If you are inclined to use the organic approach and are confused about what to do, how to interpret soil tests, etc, feel free to contact me. I'll do my best to help.

Rodale Institute and the Organic Green Revolution

2009-02-01T21:35:00.002-06:00

For many years I have been concerned about world health issues. In particular, it bothers me to see the world hunger situation in such dire straits. This month I want to share with you some information from a recent article, that I hope peaks your interest. First, let's examine a bit of history. As early as the 1930s and 40s some scientists were becoming skeptical of what was considered conventional agriculture. They saw the loss and deterioration of the soil, accompanied by the lack of nutrition in food for animal and humans, as a serious problem. These scientists did not get much attention. In fact, some were ridiculed, considered old-fashioned, and even condemned for their scientific contributions.

J.I. Rodale was one man with many concerns in this era. In 1941, he bought a farm in Pennsylvania, and in 1942 started a magazine, "Organic Farming and Gardening," with the goal of developing and demonstrating practical methods of rebuilding natural soil fertility.

In the 1960s many agriculture scientists, and others in government and industry, began advocating that the US had the solution to the world food shortage problems. The movement was called the industrial Green Revolution. In agriculture, that meant "get big or get out," an actual quote from Secretary of Agriculture, Earl Butz. The emphasis in agriculture was on genetics (hybridization and eventually GMOs) and chemical NPK fertilization for increased production. If you look at the agriculture scientific journals for the last 40 years, you can see how this theme prevailed.

As time went on, there was more and more emphasis on chemical herbicides and pesticides. The word "green" in the industrial Green Revolution had nothing to do with its general meaning today. To be "green" in agriculture today implies efforts toward sustainability and a non-invasive, friendly approach to the environment. The industrial Green Revolution was anything but green. While the Revolution was powering its way through the US and the world in the 60s and 70s, more and more people questioned the wisdom of chemical agriculture practices.

By1981, J.I. Rodale had died. His son, Robert, had taken over the "Organic Gardening and Farming" magazine, and had won USDA support to begin the Farming System Trials. These were tests to compare the conventional and the organic systems in farm-size trials. The criteria for comparison included crop production, as well as soil development characteristics, and energy inputs. It would be holistic, long-term, and comprehensive testing.

The Rodale/USDA tests were not the only ones making this kind of comparisons. Many farming-practice tests were being done in other places throughout the US and the world. Results trickled in and were published in Eco and Alternative Agriculture magazines. Throughout it all, conventional farming soils were still being degraded and the answer for more food production was generally the same…pour on more cheap NPK fertilizer. As the soils became poorer, the more fertilizer that was required, the more pest problems that developed, and the more pesticides that had to be applied. This has been referred to as rescue chemistry. No-till farming was developed, but was not the answer to reduction in use of chemicals. Along the way, the disease and insect folks tried to moderate the application of pesticides, through an Integrated Pest Management approach.

So how did the industrial Green Revolution do in answering the call to feed the world? Consider this. Of the 6.5 billion people in the world today, 923 million are seriously undernourished, more than 2 billion suffer from micronutrient malnutrition (hidden hunger), and 25,000 die each day from starvation. FAO reports that the fuel and financial crisis of the past year have plunged an additional 77 million people into malnutrition. The world's most vulnerable people have been hit the hardest. Soils have continued to be depleted and degraded, and the developing countries of the world have become dependent on others for much of their food, fertilizer and seed supplies, i.e. they moved closer to becoming welfare States. Few, if any, of the developing countries were successful in becoming self sufficient in agriculture.

All of this has not gone unnoticed. This world-wide issue involving agriculture and human health has been on the front burner for the United Nations (UN), World Bank (WB), Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), World Health Organization (WHO) and many other organizations. The issues of food and health have come to an even more poignant junction with the recent increases in high energy costs. It's fair to say that although the intersection of environmental issues, energy, and the economy is messy and complex, it is clear that conventional farming practices need to change. This is not my conclusion, but the confirmed findings and recommendations of the recently released report of the International Assessment of Agriculture Knowledge, Science and Technology panel, supported by over 400 experts from FAO, UNEP, WHO, WB, UNESCO and more. See article "The Organic Green Revolution," by Drs. LaSalle, Hepperly and Diop. Go to RodaleInstitute.com, and click on Famine Prevention to find the article.

Here are a couple quotes from some of the base reports:

"The way the world grows its food will have to change radically to better serve the poor and hungry if the world is to cope with the growing population and climate change while avoiding social breakdown and environmental collapse."

…" the potential contribution of organic farming to feeding the world may be far higher than many had supposed."

The new Organic Green Revolution proposal is based on two guiding principles: Build soil organic matter through the use of cover crops, crop rotation, and compost; and improve ecosystem health and human nutrition through plant and animal diversity.

The authors list the following benefits of the regenerative organic farming systems that they have proposed.

Competitive yields
Improved soil
Money savings
Energy savings
Mitigation of global warming
Enhanced biodiversity
Water conservation
Improved resiliency to weather variations
Increased food nutrient density
Reduced toxic load

I personally believe the time in ripe for this Organic Green Revolution. Without it, the road ahead looks dismal. For those of us already on board with an organic approach, we extend our welcome and helping hand to those wanting to make the transition. If you missed the first train, don't worry. We will keep the light on until you arrive.

Growing Your Own Vegetables

2008-12-14T21:51:00.003-06:00

Welcome New Master Gardeners! I hope that for many of you, the Master Gardening Course is the beginning of an adventure that lasts for the rest of your lives. Perhaps something in the course will be the spark that gets you into some new gardening areas that you have not previously considered. With the current economic and environmental situation in this country and the world, many gardeners are moving to a more natural or organic approach to grow their own vegetables. Many of the steps and processes in organics are parallel to the conventional systems. Simply avoid using chemical pesticides, highly processed fertilizers, genetically modified seeds, and raw manures, and you are on the way to the organic approach. There is no reason to be intimidated by the natural system for growing any crop. The model in Nature has been here a long time and it continues to serve us well.

What are the components in organic gardening? In the 10-hour Organic Gardening Course that I teach, I break the natural system into four interrelated components – compost, soil biology, soil minerals, and energy. By understanding the basics of these components, you begin to see how the whole system works. When you employ the holistic approach, the gardening processes become clear, and gardening becomes more enjoyable.

It is also exciting to see how the health of the soil affects the health of the plants, as well as the produce and the consumer. In my garden, and in my teaching, I work to understand how vegetables can be grown so that they are dense in nutrients (healthy). If you follow my recommended protocol, in a few short years, you will see that the soil has improved. That means improved tilth, fewer weeds, fewer insect and disease problems, and increased production with better taste and longer shelf life.

How big should I make the garden? Many factors will influence that decision. If you are just getting started, keep it small but do it right. A few hundred square feet will give you a lot of vegetables. I keep rough production figures,
and you can expect 1-4 pounds or more per square foot, depending on the crop. Sometimes the decision of size is just a matter of how much time you have to spend in the garden. My vegetable garden is over 2,000 square feet. In addition I have many perennials, i.e., blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, asparagus, rhubarb, figs, apples, peaches, plums, pears, and 10 soft shell pecans.

How much work is involved? I have been gardening for more than 50 years, so I have developed a lot of work-saving techniques. The original bed preparation generally takes the most time, but doing it right will pay off in the development of a healthy soil and future garden maintenance. I use and recommend double-digging, raised beds, minimal tilling, mulching, cover crops, and close spacing. The harvesting, freezing, drying, and canning, also takes considerable time, but knowing that the produce is free of pesticides, rich in minerals, and tasty, makes it all worthwhile.

Gardening Partners. If vegetable gardening is a new venture for you, I recommend you find a friend or neighbor who has similar interests. You can share information, seeds and some produce. Start by growing a few of the standard, easy-to-grow crops, and then expand each year. Try some crops you know little about. Look for enjoyment, surprises and good eating. I am always available to answer questions.

Sweet Corn, Paramagnetic Rock, and More

2008-12-14T21:49:00.002-06:00

The seed catalog says, "Sweet Corn, Country Gentleman (Shoe-peg) - 95 days." I grew this 1890 Heirloom variety successfully in 2007, and decided to grow it again in 2008, using some new techniques. I have been a gardener for more than 50 years, but what followed surprised me.

I teach a gardening course, Biological/Organic Gardening and More, so I am always trying new crops and new ideas that may help gardeners become more sustainable. In addition, I strive to develop practices that make for effective but easy gardening. I have double-dug, raised beds and actually work the soil as little as possible. I never use a tiller. I have a silty-clay-loam soil, with 5 percent organic matter content, and have been fertilizing with organic materials for seven years. Here in Northwest Arkansas, we have a long growing season, so sweet corn can be planted over an extended time to get several successive pickings, even with 95-day corn.

Oats and/or Austrian winter peas make excellent fall/winter cover crops in our climate. The oats is my cover crop choice for beds that can be planted from mid-August through September. The oats will grow to 30 inches in height by the end of November, and then winter-kill when the temperature gets below 20 degrees. The oats generally fall over, mat down, and provide a thick bed of straw mulch for soil protection and weed control until I am ready to plant in the spring and summer. The Austrian Winter Peas are my choice for a late season cover crop, i.e. anything planted after October 1. The peas stop growing in December and resume again in February, and in the process, fix a lot of nitrogen in the soil.

For the bed where the 95-day corn was to be planted, I used Austrian winter peas for the fall/winter cover crop. In mid-May I cut off the 3-foot pea vines at the ground line, and laid them back on the beds for mulch, I did not till or work the soil in any way. Two weeks later, (June 2), I planted the Country Gentleman corn.

This year I added soil and foliar fertilizer mixes, as recommended on the basis of soil tests, by International Agriculture Labs, basically following the Reams system. All the soil fertilizers were simply added to the surface. In addition, I have become a strong believer in the use of paramagnetic rock for building soil energy. In the fall of 2007, before I planted the peas, I added one pound of paramagnetic rock per square foot, to all of my garden beds. My original garden soil had paramagnetic values of 80 -100 CGS, but by mixing the paramagnetic rock in the soil, to an 8-inch depth, I raised the CGS values to over 500. I felt that would be a good paramagnetic value starting point.

I have been gardening for 50 years and have been following the organic approach for more than 35. Yet what happened with this year's sweet corn is an unusual story. Remember now, this is 95-day corn, and I planted it late, so we could be eating it in late August and early September.

Here are the results. In three days after planting, the corn was up and it began to grow. In 30 days the corn was 6 feet tall, in 40 days it was 9 feet, in 50 days it was 12 feet, and on the 59^th day from planting, we ate sweet corn with a Brix reading of 20. A few days later, the harvested corn had Brix values from 24-30. Any gardener would be happy to have these results. So what is the explanation for my corn reaching maturity in 59 days?

I strongly suspect that the paramagnetic rock was a big contributor for the rapid growth and early maturity. Many studies by Dr. Phil Callahan, Malcom Beck, and others attest to an increase in growth and other desirable traits for plants in soils where paramagnetic values are high. Dan Skow, D.V.M. and Charles Walters Jr. in their book, Mainline Farming for Century 21, point out that the growing season for 110-day corn can be shortened by creating a powerful magnetic field. In the mid-west corn belt, 110-day corn matures in about 110 days, whereas in central Mexico, where the magnetic field is less, it takes 9 months. See also The Non-Toxic Farming Hand book by Phillip A Wheeler, Ph.D. and Ronald B Ward, Biological Farm Management System Handbook by Bruce Tainio, and Graeme Sait in Nutrition Rules! for explanations and the value of paramagnetic rock. It's critical to understand that paramagnetic rock does not substitute for lack of minerals. The mineral content and mineral ratios need to be correct. Besides increasing growth and shortening the time to maturity, paramagnetic rock can increase frost hardiness, winter hardiness, insect and disease resistance, soil water holding capacity, microbial activity, flowering, and drought hardiness, as well as improve nutrient utilization.

Although what I have done, shortening the growing season, is not new, it's the magnitude of the change that is amazing. I point all this out because I think that we as gardeners can all decrease the time from planting to harvest, and simultaneously increase production and quality simply by following good soil nutrition rules and by raising the soil paramagnetic values. Shortening the growing season is not an academic endeavor. It's important from an economic standpoint for market gardeners, and it's critical in the northern climates, where early frosts can often curtail production. I will be experimenting further to shorten the growing season for a marginal crop in this area – figs.

If there is a negative in this, it's that the season for harvesting the sweet corn was also shortened. I had a similar situation with my Golden Bantam sweet corn this year, in that the time to maturity and harvesting period were both reduced. I believe that the shortened harvesting period can be remedied for growers simply by planting smaller, successive crops. In fact, once you understand the dynamics for your crops, it may make marketing easier to manage. After seeing what was occurring with the corn, I planted some cherry bell radishes, just to observe growth rates. When planted on August 9^th, we were eating fully developed radishes in 18 days. Again, that was a substantial reduction from what I normally expect in our area.

I encourage gardeners and farmers to give paramagnetic rock a fair trial. For measuring the paramagnetic values, you will want a Phil Callahan Soil Meter, which is available from Pike Agri-Labs Supplies, Inc. located in Jay, Maine. The bottle-neck for many will be finding a source of the paramagnetic rock. Fortunately here in Northwest Arkansas, we have an organic farm and garden supply store (Nitron Industries in Johnson, AR) that purchased a big load of paramagnetic rock. The paramagnetic value of the rock is very high, testing over 10,000 CGS. The rock was purchased from Doug Murray, in Paw Paw, Michigan. Call Doug Murray at 269-930-9309 for details. He gets the rock from Canada, and can deliver it to any site.

I have been excited about this energy-building rock, since I first read about it. My vision was that my entire garden and eventually my entire 2 acres would be fully charged with magnetic energy, assisted by the paramagnetic rock. I visualize the entire site as an energy bubble, extending from below ground to above the plant surfaces. This was the first full year that the rock was applied to the garden, and the Brix levels of the produce have increased considerably. Better nutrition surely helped too. I have grown Moon and Stars watermelons for several years and their size has been in the range described in the catalogues, i.e. 10 - 25 pounds. Not this year! All the melons were considerably larger, several exceeding 40 pounds.

Another observation this year has been the increase in the number of birds and their activity. Since early spring, we consistently had more bird species in our garden area, in pairs, mating and nesting, than any previous year. It was like they found our energy bubble island, they liked it, and they decided to stay. We didn't mind, even the feeding of 30 or more hummers all summer.

The idea that energy is a key component to the biological gardening and farming approach is not always easy to explain or sell, especially to the conventional gardeners and farmers. When folks see my 12 foot corn in 50 days, eating it at day 59, and with a Brix of 20 plus, they want to know more. For some, it leads to a stop at the garden store to get a bag or two of paramagnetic rock. I never criticize the gardeners for their past gardening practices. I do coach them to move in the Go-Natural approach. For some it is the first small step to healthier eating, a friendlier approach on the environment, and hopefully someday realizing the social injustice that is currently being imposed on many farmers and indigenous people of developing countries, who are losing the use of their heirloom seeds with the infusion of GMOs.

I will be following up with observations on other crops in the future. For those who have observations and/or questions, I welcome your information and inquiry. In the currently existing "world food crisis" era, and the rapidly growing interest in raising our own food, we as gardeners have valuable skills to share. I hope we can all be working together to provide the best information possible.

Calvin F. Bey, Ph.D., is a retired agriculture scientist, living in Fayetteville, Arkansas, with a passion for teaching others about eco-gardening. He and his wife Doris use their demonstration garden and energy-efficient home to help others understand the concept of sustainability. He can be reached at CFBey1936@cox.net or see http://harmonygardens.blogspot.com

Science Based Organics

2008-11-25T21:02:00.002-06:00

I spent several evenings this month reading scientific papers published in the Proceedings of the Second Scientific Conference of the International Society of Organic Agriculture Research. The conference was held in Modena, Italy in June of 2008. The Proceedings include over 400 papers. These are science based papers and include every kind of agriculture topic, coming from all over the world.

Many scientists from the United States had papers in the Proceedings and I was interested in those with long-term results. Iowa State University scientists reported on their 9-year corn and soybean tests, comparing conventional and organic systems. Here are their conclusions: (1) No differences in production figures between organic and conventional. (2) Costs of production were lower for organics. (3) Revenues for organic corn were 1.67 times greater than for conventional. (4) Revenues for organic soybeans were 2.32 times greater than for conventional. (5) Soil organic carbon and mineralizable nitrogen were greater in the organic tests.

The Proceedings included a lot of papers on soil development, plant nutrients, and beneficial micro-organisms. The conclusions or themes that are revealed include: (1) organic systems are better than conventional systems for building soil organic matter and fertility; (2) there is less leaching of nutrients, especially nitrogen, from organic systems, and (3) organic systems with good microbial populations utilize nutrients more effectively and also increase production. In a different vein, one study in Italy showed that residue from transgenic (Genetically Modified Organism) corn (with the Bt gene) reduced the establishment of beneficial mycorrhizal fungi. It's another reason why "certified organic" growers in the US are not allowed to use GMO seeds.

In another recent publication, ACRES USA, there are several articles on compost. The authors, with many years of personal experience dealing with farmers and gardeners, quote long standing research studies dealing with soil fertility and compost. I am a firm believer that compost is a key element as you garden, whether it is a conventional or an organic approach; but, with the following qualification…the amount of compost to use must be considered in light of soil nutrient availability. If used wisely, compost is a great product for many soils and it will pay great dividends. Compost provides nutrients, aids in promoting life in the soil and neutralizing toxins, improves soil water holding capacity, and improves soil tilth (structure and workability). As with any soil amendment or process, there are some misconceptions and cautions about the use of compost.

The misconceptions about compost, are as follows: (1) All compost is alike. In fact, the quality of compost depends on the composting process and what special products have been added. (2) The more compost you use, the better. You can't add too much. In fact, the amount to apply should be dependent on the soil nutrient analysis. There are times, e.g. when K levels are high and Ca is low, you should probably not be adding any compost. Remember, if a soil has too much of something, it will always have too little of something else. Nutrient-dense foods do not come from soils that are excessive in any of the required nutrients. (3) Compost should be applied regularly. In fact, compost should be applied when the soil analysis calls for it. (4) For good fertility, compost is all the gardener needs. In fact, soils often need some nutrients beyond what compost provides. It is entirely possible for a soil to already have too much of what compost provides. (5) Compost is far superior to all other fertilizers and soil amendments. In fact, compost is a tool for a specific job, and not an either/or decision.

If you are new at gardening, by all means become familiar and committed to composting. You can compost essentially all of your yard, garden, and kitchen wastes. It can be applied to the trees, bushes, vegetables, and flowers. Using compost moves you closer to becoming sustainable. As the price of fertilizers rise, and the economy weakens, compost becomes more and more important and valuable. Use it wisely.

Caring for Creation Seminar, Sequoyah, Oct 08

2008-11-25T20:55:00.001-06:00

Caring for the Land – Our Stewardship Responsibility

Calvin F. Bey CFBey1936@cox.net
http://harmonygardens.blogspot.com

I was born in 1936, and I grew up in a dairy farm in northern Michigan in a time when life was still relatively simple. Stewardship of the land was mostly about conservation and preservation practices. Stewardship on the farm meant you rotated crops, left land fallow, cultivated for weed control, terraced to prevent soil erosion, maintained soil quality by growing alfalfa and plowing it under, and used the animal manures to keep up soil fertility. Commercial fertilizers were used sparsely, and you saved seed for next year's planting.

Our "way of life on the farm," was done mostly with knowledge passed on from the previous generations. We strived to work with and follow the laws of Nature. We understood that we would make sacrifices for the greater good of soil and water sustainability.

That early philosophy of stewardship did not last, and it bothers me as to what has happened over the past 75 years (one short lifetime). Natural resource stewardship has degenerated to where we now routinely use the resources for our personal and corporate advantage. Farming has become more about business than about Nature. In many cases Nature is viewed as being inanimate, an infinite resource chest, and a place to dump toxins and wastes.

We have grown to think of Nature as an object that we control; as a slave, rather than a "living being" with a heart beat, and a partner in a cooperative venture. Nature is often viewed as property, to be bought, sold and used in keeping with what is deemed necessary and desirable for ourselves. We have done many things to destabilize Nature, rather than working to stabilize the Natural systems. It's appropriate to say, "Our heart is bent in on itself," meaning that we have treated Nature with self-centeredness rather than self-sacrifice. And it happened on our watch with governments, big business, and Universities participating, if not leading the way.

Perhaps like many cultures, our American transformation came as we ushered in and promulgated the benefits that came with the Industrial Revolution. We took pride in our technical successes, doubled our life expectancy, and lifted millions from poverty and scourge of disease. Unfortunately, maintaining intimacy with the Earth and Nature was not a central theme.

The 20^th century theme in America could very well be characterized as "becoming bigger consumers." Alan Durning, in How Much Is Enough?, claims that during the period of 1950-2000, global workers and consumers produced and consumed as many goods and services, than in the entire period of history before that date. Americans in particular became a nation of people who collected "stuff". It was better to have more than to have enough. Witness today those who have houses full of stuff plus rented storage facilities for their "overflow."

In Matthew 12:24, we hear the clear message: "No man can serve two masters." In many ways, the money master has won the day, sometimes in the very name of God.

It's time to change our behavior regarding stewardship of land and all natural resources. It needs to begin with the Hippocratic oath, "First, do no harm" -- to the environment. It needs to be about respecting the laws of Nature, in all that we do. And for ourselves, it's about sacrificing and living with the philosophy that "having enough is better than having more."

To help provide standards and goals for desired future conditions, we need to understand the conditions that develop when Nature is in control. We can also learn a lesson from the description of the Creation account in Genesis 2. I understand that the Hebrew word for Adam means "earth creature," and the Hebrew word for Eve means "living." Soil and Life are our primordial identity. Our reason for being here is to be the guardians of the earth, meaning the topsoil, all the land, all the waters, and all resources.

As we deal with stewardship of planet earth, we need to have full appreciation of our roles as humans. First, we must be like vigilant, caring shepherds who look out for their sheep, selectively intervening for the sake of sustaining the flock. Second, we are responsible for serving the Earth and protecting it. We must become partners with the Earth, not operating like we have control over it. And third, we need to honor the immaculate integrity of all the natural systems. Resource practices that build, restore and amplify life should be encouraged.

The land stewardship practices that are needed today include a lot of remediation efforts. The issues revolve around two classes of natural resources – those that are limited and those that are renewable. For the limited resources, like oil, coal, copper, etc, it's a matter of developing proper extraction management policies and practices to insure extension of the resources, while looking for substitutes.

For the renewable resources, the issues of today have developed because of bad management practices. It is sad but true, that among many things, we have polluted our streams, rivers, and ground water, and have lost much of our top soil and soil fertility. These are critical life-giving resources that took a long time to develop, and will require long-term remediation techniques.

Our forbearers would be appalled to find that our stewardship practices have sent essentially every major life system into decline, and threatens the well-being of future generations of all earth's creatures, including man. If able to inquire, our forbearers would surely ask about life on the farm. They would ask questions like, "who runs the family farm, how are the neighbors getting along, is that old spring still functioning, and does Aunt Susie have enough vegetables "put up" for the winter?" They would be shocked to know that the family farm was sold to a large farm corporation, the neighbor's land is now a shopping center with 4 acres of asphalt parking, the spring has been polluted with farm pesticides, and that most folks don't grow their own vegetables, and certainly could not be bothered with "putting them up," whatever that means. Maybe we should give some thought to "life on the farm."

Selecting the Garden Site

2008-10-19T20:04:00.002-05:00

In my Garden Thyme article last month, I wrote about "money in the bank," i.e. the value of nitrogen fixing plants, and how we can benefit. At that time, we didn't know the seriousness of the looming financial crisis, nor the serious adjustments in standard of living that would come quickly for so many. The first and hardest effected will be the poorest. I am afraid there are stressful times ahead. I am already hearing about folks who are now thinking about what garden produce they might grow to help their financial situation. As Master Gardeners, we can do more vegetable gardening for ourselves and help others.

Many of you say that you do not have a place in the back yard for vegetables. Well, how about the front yard?! Don't count it out. I have plenty of back yard garden space, but this year for demonstration purposes, I planted a cherry tomato in the front yard and surrounded it with marigolds. See recent October photo. I used a heavy wire, 5-foot high, 30-inch diameter cage for good support of the tomato vines. From that single plant, we have picked hundreds of plumb-size tomatoes and as of today, October 15, there are still more than 150 tomatoes on the plant. That one plant is sufficient for all our fresh tomatoes, and more. I will cover that plant for the first light frost or two, so we will likely have fresh tomatoes well into November.

Don't restrict yourself to tomatoes for the front yard. You could do about any vegetable crop. The only troublesome ones might be the vine-type vegetables like cucumbers, melons, or pumpkins that are hard to contain.

Here are the questions to ask as you decide where you place your garden. (1) Do I have enough direct sun? Ideally, go for full sun, but six hours of direct sun will do for some crops. (2) Where is my best soil? If you have choice, probably more important than anything else, select the soil that is the deepest. Get out the shovel and dig some holes. Soils low in organic matter and nutrients can be fixed. (3) Are there nearby troubling tree roots? My recommendation is that you stay 30 feet or more from any tree crown drip line. Once tree roots get into your garden space, you will have trouble. They will quickly proliferate, and rob the site of minerals and water. Keeping the tree roots cut off will be a challenge. Some people will cut down a tree in favor of the vegetable garden. I know, I have done it.

Besides selecting the garden site, I encourage you to plan your garden in considerable detail. Draw a map of the garden and decide what crop is going where. Get your seed early, and share seed with others. Last spring, seed companies experienced record sales, and ran out of seed. Next year promises to be an even bigger year for seed sales. I will be ordering some seeds in bulk, including some heirloom varieties, growing some plants, and having some available for my organic gardening class students and for Master Gardeners. If interested talk to me early about this.

By all means, get a soil test in January. The nutrient content cannot be determined by just looking at the soil. Whether it is a first-time vegetable garden or not, I recommend you get the organic matter content tested. It costs a few dollars, but is well worth it, especially if you are coming to me to get advice on an organic fertilization program. I am willing to help on organic gardening problems, but much like a human medical situation, better advice is assured with more information. I generally want a history of the site (fertilizers, pesticides, mulches, cover crops, composts, etc), soil test results, and problems during the last season. Together that gives me clues about what you might need to do to grow nutrient-dense produce.

I have looked at hundreds of Arkansas soil test reports, and the results from gardens are extremely variable. For different gardens, for any given nutrient, the pounds per acre from the lowest to highest can be 20 fold or more. Without a soil test report, any fertilization recommendations given will be little more than a wild guess. I prefer to leave the gambling to those going to Las Vegas.

Nitrogen-Fixing Plants - Money in the Bank

2008-10-19T19:59:00.002-05:00

To most of us, the idea of getting something free is appealing. The old adage, "you scratch my back and I'll scratch yours," was originally said with the idea of people doing favors for each other. In a very similar way, that is what happens in nature with plants that extract nitrogen from the air, bottle it in little containers called nodules on the plants roots, and in turn use the nitrogen for their own growth. What a deal. It's like winning the lottery without buying a ticket, putting the money in the bank, and drawing interest.

There are well over 1,000 nitrogen-fixing plants, from bacteria, algae, ferns, shrubs, and commercial crops to many species of trees. These plants serve as important components in the intricate way Nature has designed complex ecosystems. We have learned how the "fixation" process works and which plants can generate the most nitrogen. Some of the nitrogen-fixers, which are classified as legumes, include garden peas, Austrian winter peas, beans, cowpeas, vetch, clover and alfalfa, to name just a few. Many farmers have used alfalfa in their crop rotation system, for building better soils. Alfalfa penetrates deep into the soil (even heavy clay soils), extracts minerals, increases soil organic matter, and add lots of nitrogen in the process.

Our air is 78 percent nitrogen, which means we have almost 3 tons of nitrogen above each acre of land. Unfortunately, plants cannot normally use it directly from the air in the stable gaseous state. It needs to first be converted into the various nitrate compounds. In most legumes that conversion comes about because of a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium bacteria, which form those little white (pink inside) nodules on the plant roots.
The plants provide the bacteria with carbohydrates for energy and a stable environment for growth, while the bacteria give the plants nitrogen and other nutrients. Dig up a clover or bean plant in your garden and see if the nodules are present. If not, you may need to add bacteria (inoculum) to get the "fixation" process started. Most seed companies have the specific inoculum that you will need for your crop.

The amount of nitrogen produced by nitrogen-fixers can be very significant. Depending on soil conditions and the species, you can get 75-150 or more pounds of nitrogen produced per acre. Best of all, it is in a form that the plants can use and will be slowly released for use over the season. It's not likely to be leached out of the soil, and it is not going to be toxic or burn the plants.

I see many gardens and most gardeners are not using the nitrogen-fixing plants to their advantage. They are rejecting this free offer to put money in the bank. Organic growers apply nitrogen using a great variety of slow-release fertilizer sources – compost from vegetation and manures, alfalfa meal, fish meal, feather meal, and blood meal. These are all good, non-leachable forms, which will benefit plant growth. To move in the direction of being more sustainable, it would pay to use more of the nitrogen-fixing plants.

I use Austrian winter peas, and like to have them in the ground by October 1. They will grow for 6-8 weeks in the fall, and then resume growth again in February. By May 15, they will 30 inches or more tall and have produced a lot of nitrogen. The Austrian winter pea vegetation makes excellent compost, or you can use it for mulch on the garden. It's money in the bank!

Genetic Diversity and Heirloom Seeds

2008-09-04T13:15:00.002-05:00

To understand the basics of growing organic crops, it's necessary to deal with ecological principles. One of those principles, or otherwise referred to as a law of nature, deals with genetic diversity and heirloom seeds.

The central principle on this subject, in a nutshell, is this: the more genetic diversity we have in a garden, field, forest or major ecosystem, the more stable will be that system. We often refer to that diversity as a measure of the buffering capacity of that system to adjust to whatever forces of nature are present. Nature promotes that diversity at several different levels, and for good reasons. Walk into a hardwood forest in this area, and you see trees, shrubs, bushes, herbs, and grasses – all above ground. Beneath the soil surface you see an equally rich plethora of plant and animal life. It's all tied together and functioning for the most ulterior goal of all -- to maintain a sustainable system. Nature is not obsessed with producing bins and bushels, as has been man in gardening and farming over the last century. In each plant class in that same forest, you see a variety of species, and within the species a variety of genotypes (a slightly different genetic make-up.) All of that diversity is important for buffering the system from disaster. Certainly with a natural system, genetic diversity is considered a positive value. When we make selections within a species (as in all crop breeding), we begin to narrow that diversity. We are basically trading off the diversity value for some improved traits.

Obviously, we can't expect to grow crops under the forest conditions, nor can we grow 20 garden vegetables in the same square foot. However, in our gardens, the more crops and companion species we grow (increased diversity), the greater is the buffering capacity to disaster. Grow three kinds of beans, and depending on the season, one will usually do a little better than the others. I suppose since domestication of crops began, we have been selecting plants for a variety of traits – yield, pest resistance, drought hardiness, etc. The hybridization approach was only a more complex way of doing the same thing. The same is true of the gene insertion procedures, to give us the genetically modified organisms (GMOs). Whatever the procedure, the trade-off has been the decreasing of the genetic base, and thus reducing the capacity to resist specific disasters.

The continual narrowing of the genetic base has been a major concern, and from that has come many programs to find plants and seeds from which modern lines were derived, and many seed-saving efforts. The Seed Savers Exchange is a formal effort to find and perpetuate 'lines" of crops that are not found in the commercial ventures today. The "lines" are open-pollinated (free to cross with the neighbors), and anyone can save seed from those lines and grow a like-kind of crop the next year. That in not the case with seed saved from hybrids. They do not breed true. Basically, GMOs are hybrids with special gene insertions. With GMOs, the seed companies own the gene patents, so it is illegal to save and use any seed that contains the patented genes. For GMOs, just as in hybrids, you must go to the company for new seed each year.

In my garden, I mostly use open-pollinated seeds, and in some cases they are heirlooms. Heirloom seed is simply seed that has been handed down in families over many years. Some will refer to heirlooms as seed that was originally collected over 50 years ago. If you grow vegetables, it's likely that you have grown some heirloom varieties. There are hundreds (one catalogue lists 1100 heirloom varieties for sale) and the list is growing as new ones are discovered. If you have grown Arkansas Traveler or Ox Heart tomatoes, Contender bush beans, .Detroit Dark Red beets, Nantes or Danvers Half Long carrots, Late Flat Dutch cabbage, Moon and Stars watermelon, and Golden Bantam or Country Gentleman sweet corn, then you have grown an heirloom line. Many of the lines go back to the 1800s and some even earlier.

Yields and quality from heirloom varieties can be very good. Because there are many unusual types, it is sometimes just fun to plant them for the novelty and education. You don't need 12-foot sweet corn to get good production, but as I showed last month, Country Gentleman sweet corn turned out to be a good choice this year. Through some special soil treatments, I grew this 95-day corn, from planting to initial harvest in 59 days. The cobs were large and the corn had an excellent Brix rating (nutrient dense). I had equally excellent results with the heirloom Detroit Dark Red beets and the Nantes carrots. See the photos.

I encourage you to look in specialty seed catalogues and get some of the heirloom seeds. You will find that you have many choices to select from, and you just may find some tasty varieties, that have been long gone from some of the hybrids. Then, by saving your own seed, you take another step to becoming more sustainable. For good sources to further explore this topic, see heirloomseeds.com, rareseeds.com or seedsaver.org.

Late-Summer and Fall Gardens

2008-08-07T00:07:00.003-05:00

The first part of August is the time to plan for the late-summer/fall garden. Fall crops that will do well here include; lettuce, radishes, broccoli, cabbage, beets, carrots, onions, and potatoes. Plan to put those seeds or plants in the ground in late August or early September. Get a soil test now to guide you before you plant the fall crop. If you want to use an organic fertilization approach, I am willing to help you. Just contact me after you have the soil test report. In advising, I also like to know what fertilizers you have applied this past year, and what kind of production and problems you have encountered.

In the last couple months, I have dealt with several gardeners, who have been using too much compost for their vegetables. As a result they are getting lush vegetative growth, but not good fruit production. Just like fertilizer recommendations, the amount of compost to apply needs to be calculated and measured. A soil test for minerals and a test for organic matter content are strongly advised.

For gardeners with raised beds, this has been a good year. The 7.5 inches of rain in June and 5 inches in early July has generally resulted in exceptionally good plant growth. A few folks, without raised beds, have had some problems with too much rain. Some noticed the plants wilting after the big rains. It's likely that their soil is super saturated and that the soil air space is filled with water. The plant roots need air, so the plants are under stress and unable to grow. Plants like this can wilt just like they might do under drought conditions.

If you are not going to grow a fall garden, by all means get a cover crop of oats planted, not later than mid-September. Last year I had a patch of melons, still producing at the first of September, on beds where I wanted to get a cover crop of oats. I simply scattered the oats on the beds, scratched it in a little and spread a quarter inch of compost on the top. In a few days it germinated, and by the time the melons were gone (mid-September), the oats was several inches tall. In the next two months, it grew to 30 inches, died back in January, and left the soil fully covered until I was ready to plant in the spring. In March, I just raked the oats straw cover back and planted—not tilling or even turning the soil. On that spot I just took off onions (1015Y), that produced 75 pounds in 25 square feet.

Another good cover crop choice is Austrian Winter Peas. They have the advantage of fixing nitrogen in the soil. Like oats, they will germinate quickly and make a cover in a short time. They will stop growing in December here in NW Arkansas, but will resume growth again in February. They are nitrogen fixers, so when it was time to plant corn (June 2 this year for me), I simply pulled the peas and left them in place for mulch. I planted the corn and in 43 days, by July 15, I had heirloom "Country Gentleman" corn that was more than 9 feet tall. See photo and other garden photos on my website. Gardening can be made simple, and often with less work than you might anticipate. Just follow a few key guidelines and respect the Laws of Nature.

I will be teaching a course (Organic/Biological Gardening) in August and again in September. For those interested, please contact me. The course is packed with a lot of information. See my site: harmonygardens.blogspot.com for course details and other gardening information.

If you are observing your trees this year, you have probably noticed that the oaks and pecans have an excellent seed crop. After a near-bust mast crop in 2007, the situation for wildlife looks good. I have 7-year old grafted and seedling pecans that are loaded with seed. Though we have a few months to go, I am looking forward to a bountiful harvest. If you are interested in growing pecans as a crop, give me a call.

Potato bugs and corn photos

2008-07-22T15:55:00.006-05:00

Onions and Corn photos

2008-07-22T15:52:00.004-05:00

2008 Garden Photos

2008-07-07T12:55:00.022-05:00

July 7,2008

Greetings,

So far, 2008 has been a good gardening year. Although we had a cool spring, the rains have been very helpful and temperatures in late May and June were moderate. The raised beds have been very helpful for drainage with the many rains. Most crops have done well. I am posting a few pictures of the garden and the produce.

Note also some photos of a few of our bird friends, winter garden design, and an experiment with the use of sprinklers to keep from losing peaches in 25 degree temperatures in mid May.

We had a very good "Field Day" here in early June and many folks have dropped by since that time. Our goal is to help others to grow their own vegetables in a sustainable manner. We strive to grow nutrient dense produce, using the natural (organic) approach. It works! It builds soil and it is far better for the land and for our health. With food becoming an increasing world-wide scarcity (a crisis), it behooves us all to seek ways to be better stewards. By avoiding toxic pesticides, most chemical fertilizers and GMOs, we take the first step to improvement of our land. See pictures of produce below, grown by following the Laws of Nature.

Blessings, Calvin and Doris

World Food Crisis -- Here and Now--Our Opportunity

2008-07-02T22:56:00.002-05:00

Organic Gardening and More

"World Food Crisis"--Here and Now--Our Opportunity

By Calvin F. Bey CFBey1936@cox.net

We have all been hearing about what is now called the "World Food Crisis." As I have followed environmental issues over the past 25 years, I often had the feeling that future generations in the US would someday be facing food scarcity and food security issues. Never did I expect that so soon we would see leading magazines featuring the "World Food Crisis," nor country after country already experiencing food riots.

This world issue is now affecting us in the US and promises to become more severe. There are obvious reasons; oil prices are up, food crops are being diverted into ethanol, there are weather related crop losses, and grain futures market speculations that drive up prices. As Americans, our food prices in the past have been unusually low, so price increases now make for difficult adjustments. The fact is that rising food prices (40% world-wide in last 2 years), have hurt the poorest, first and hardest. For those already living on marginal calories, many will become starvation victims. It greatly concerns me that the trends described above are likely to continue and will probably even accelerate.

This "world" problem is here and now in the US. Many people in the US are experiencing hardships and becoming more concerned about their food supply. We are hearing more and more about sharpening our skills to survive under "rules" of scarcity. There has already been a surge in the number of people interested in home gardening. W. Atlee Burpee and Co. sold twice as many seeds this year as it did last year. Seed Savers Exchange ran out of seed potatoes this year and mailed 10,000 tomato and pepper transplants in May, double the usual amount. Stark Bothers Nurseries and Orchards Co., and others are reporting increased sales. I have had more than 100 people tour my vegetable garden this spring. Most were new folks wanting to learn how to do a better job of growing their own produce. While all of this is great, it is also an indication of a developing need in society—the need to train others in growing vegetables. To me, it seems a perfect fit that we as
Master Gardeners become known for helping to address the "world food crisis" issue.

Wouldn't it be wonderful if we as Master Gardeners began placing more effort in our Chapters on how we can help others grow their own food in a sustainable manner? We could start by encouraging more Master Gardeners to grow vegetables for themselves and then training others. I think that this needs to be an entirely grassroots effort. By that, I mean individuals in Chapters taking on additional responsibility to learn more about vegetable growing and to help others grow their own food in a sustainable manner. It will succeed best if done at the grassroots level. Being a gardening mentor for a neighbor or a friend can be a very helpful and rewarding experience. Perhaps there could be more official MG projects that would fit into this category.

In the future, when asked what Master Gardeners have done to help with the world food crisis, I would like to be able to say, "We began by helping our neighbors grow more of their own food. And then the neighbors began helping their neighbors. And soon we had a community of growers and believers in an effort that made locally-grown produce a reality. Yes, Master Gardeners and their neighbors were important contributors in the grassroots efforts in making a difference for themselves, their neighbors and for the World Food Crisis."

I suggest that this idea be promoted in every Master Gardener Chapter in Arkansas and throughout the entire country.

Why do more than be "organic'?

2008-05-21T20:56:00.002-05:00

Almost 40 years ago now, a co-worker explained to me how he had grown strawberries successfully and continuously in the same bed for 17 years. That was very different from the two-year system that I knew about, so I was curious. It turned out he was growing strawberries organically, and was using a light layer of wood chips to cover the beds. I tried his system, it worked, and I began following organic gardening practices. It took until the last few years for me to fully understand why his system for strawberries was so successful. In short, the organic system was keeping the soil system biologically healthy and the wood chips favored the correct balance between beneficial bacteria and beneficial fungi that are ideal for strawberries. I use this example to demonstrate that change often only comes after we see results for ourselves. Taking that first step is often the hard part of making a change.

When I teach organic gardening classes, I explain the rationale for going organic in this manner. Do it for the benefit of creating a healthy, pollution-free environment, and for the benefit of growing produce that is free of toxins. Chemical pesticides are toxic. They are designed to kill and they continue to compromise human health. There are many bona-fide medical studies to support this contention. Furthermore, the organic approach leads you much more in the direction of sustainable production. In fact, the history lesson from chemical farming in this country is that we have depleted organic matter and minerals in our soils, and allowed most of the top soil to wash or blow away.

It is not more difficult or risky to garden organically. Given that you understand and follow the common organic principles and practices, growing vegetables organically is not more difficult. It may take a few years to make the complete conversion, but with a little patience, you will be rewarded for your efforts. In short, you need to adopt the philosophy and work in harmony with the Laws of Nature, and relinquish the "control nature" attitude (management with arrogance, I call it). Your focus becomes building a healthy soil, which produces healthy plants, produce, and consumers.

It is not more expensive to garden organically. Gardening costs will depend on the organic matter and mineral content level that you have in your soil. For the first few years, you may have more costs as you concentrate on building up the soil. It's important to think about costs in relation to value received, not just the pounds and bushels of produce. Agriculture consultant and medical doctor, Dr. Arden Anderson, puts it this way, "With chemically grown produce, your first grocery bill installment is at the supermarket. Your second installment is at the medical Doctor's office. "

How about organic yields? Just as in any type of farming or gardening, the yield and quality of produce in organics depends on the management practices and the skill and diligence of the grower. There are many organic approaches, and the minimum approach to qualify for "organics" is rarely adequate to get the highest yield and quality. That is why I insist on "Organic Gardening and More." My approach is to concentrate on keeping the soil biologically healthy and getting the minerals to proper levels and proper ratios. The application of compost plays a major role in developing the potential in the soil. My garden plot is roughly 1500 square feet, and last year my production was right at 1500 pounds. I get about 100 pounds of tomatoes per plant, and have had as much as 150 pounds. I regularly monitor nutrient density (Brix readings) of my produce and, as a rule; they exceed that of store bought produce.

Special equipment is not needed. I have been using raised beds, without sideboards, and have no problems. The beds drain quickly and warm up a little faster in the spring. I double-dug my garden the first year, and incorporated organic matter into the lower soil layers. That has paid off in increased water holding capacity of the soil and increased production. I have never used a roto-tiller, which is hard on soil structure and beneficial fungi. Those who visit my garden see the deep, mellow, crumbly soil that has never been tilled. I believe strongly in keeping a crop, mulch, or cover crop on the soil at all times. It is the primary factor in promoting a biologically active and healthy soil.

Crop rotation is important, but difficult to manage when growing 25 different kinds of vegetables each year. I try to move things around, avoiding tomatoes and corn (heavy feeders) in the same place each year. I use a few companion plants in the garden, and if soil conditions are right, I use the energy cycles of the cosmos (moon signs) to guide planting dates.

The organic movement is the fastest growing segment in world-wide agriculture today. It is also a growing segment in USDA, with 100 scientists currently involved in research. In 2003, there were about 9,000 acres of cropland in organics in Arkansas. Though relatively small, it is good to see an organic horticulture program at the University of Arkansas, with Professors Dr. Curt Rom and Dr. Donn Johnson leading the research effort. The University student Organic Farm group has started vegetable gardens on the University Farm, and they sell at the Fayetteville Farmers Market.

My Organic Gardening Course is an all-day session (or more). The goal of the course is to help people make a smooth transition into organics, with emphasis on growing nutrient dense produce. Topics covered in the course include sustainability concepts, soils, fertilizers, composting, watering, timing, variety selection, cover crops, and many tips to make gardening effective, easy, and efficient. There are many good references on organic gardening. You can start by getting on the web and/or contacting me if you have questions. I will be doing a Garden Tour at my place on June 7 and all are welcome. See my web site for details. For Master Gardeners out of the area, let me know if I can be of assistance as you deal with organic programs and training.

Just as in farming, there are options for the approach you use in gardening. I encourage all gardeners to take a leap of faith and get on board in sustainable gardening using the organic methods. The long-term benefits include healthier produce, a healthier environment, and peace of mind that you are a part of the solution to the world's soil pollution problems. In the end, it all adds up to being responsible stewards for our home, our Planet Earth!

Meet "Myc" and Associates

2008-04-08T00:21:00.003-05:00

So who is "Myc?" He is, or should be, your best gardening and landscaping friend. This is especially true if you are concerned about healthy trees and shrubs. "Myc" is short for the mycorrhizae, (mike-or-eye-z) fungi. The word "mycorrhizae" is from the Greek and means "fungus-root." In short, it is a symbiotic relationship between the plant roots and the fungi. In return for the exudates from the plant roots, mycorrhizal fungi seek out water and nutrients and bring them back to the plant. Neither can survive well without the other. An acre of healthy soil should contain a few thousand pounds of this fungus. What a great working relationship and what an amazing, wonderful natural system.

Mycorrihzae have been known since 1885, when German scientist Albert Frank compared pines grown in sterilized soil and those grown in sterilized soil but inoculated with forest fungi. Those with the fungi grew much faster and larger. We now know that more than 90 percent of all plants develop mycorrhizae, and only perform at their best when they are present. Clearly, fungicides and other pesticides, high salt inorganic fertilizers, and soil disturbances like roto-tilling destroy the fungal hyphae (the thread-like network of the fungi that you see in leaves and decaying wood chips).

The primary function of fungi is to break down organic matter in the soil. They are first rate decomposers, even better than bacteria. The enzymes that the fungi release allow them to penetrate not only the lignin and cellulose in plants (dead or alive) but hard chitin shells of insects and the bones of animals. The enzymes produced by fungi are decidedly acidic and can contribute to lowering of the soil pH. It is important to remember that they are living off plant root exudates, and it is the plant (through the production of the root exudates) that is in control. In the process of doing all this, the mycorrhizae move water and nutrients into the plant.

Mycorrhizal fungi are of two kinds. The first, ectomycorrhizal fungi, grow close to the root surface of roots and can form webs around them. This type is associated with hardwood trees and conifers. The second type,

endomycorrhizal fungi, actually penetrate and grow inside the roots, as well as extend outward into the soil. This type is preferred by most vegetables, annuals, grass, and shrubs. Both types increase the effective surface area of the plant's roots, from 10 to 100 times.

Mycorrhizae are very important in bringing phosphorus to the plant. The acid produced by the fungi can unlock, retrieve, and transport chemically locked-up phosphorus back to the plant. They can also free up copper, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and iron for plant use.

Mycorrhizae can be considered mineral storage facilities. They begin by breaking down organic matter, transporting the minerals to where they are needed, and leaving a storehouse full of reserves when they die. This is the way it works in Nature, and will work for us if we are not abusive to our soils with pesticide toxins and chemical fertilizers. For soils that have been poisoned with toxins, it is fungi, bacteria, and other soil organisms that can restore those soils. Just as they breakdown organic matter, they can breakdown the toxins. But why give them this added burden, if not necessary.

Is there anything I can do to increase the bacteria and fungi in my garden, orchard, and landscape trees? Yes indeed. First, you can change the cultural things you are doing. Remember, you want both bacteria and fungi in each situation. But, you want higher bacterial populations in the garden and higher fungal populations for the orchard and landscape trees. In the garden, the fungi:bacteria ratio should be at the 1:2 level; for the trees it should be at the 10:1 or greater level.

For the garden with a high bacterial requirement, follow these guidelines:

1. Slowly build the organic matter in the soil to 5 percent. Good compost will help.

2. Get the mineral ratios in the soil corrected.

3. Keep the soil in a crop, cover crop, or mulch at all times.

4. Avoid using anything toxic – pesticides, high salt chemical fertilizers, and even chlorinated water.

5. For better aeration, use raised beds.

6. Till as little as possible. No roto-tilling.

For the orchard and landscape trees, which require a high fungal population, follow these guidelines.

1. Slowly build organic matter to 5 percent.

2. Get the mineral ratios in the soil corrected.

3. Use some wood chips for mulch. A couple inches will do. Keep it away from the tree trunk.

4. Avoid using anything toxic on the soil.

5. Avoid situations where you will have drainage problems. Drain if needed.

6. No tilling. In addition to destroying fungi, you will tear up tree roots.

A second important improvement technique is simply to add fungi and bacteria inocula directly to your soil. Many landscapers are now adding mycorrhizal fungi as they plant shrubs and trees. These bacteria and fungi are available from many sources. For the garden, be sure you have a good mixture of bacterial and fungal species. For trees, look for sources that contain several species of the endo- and ectomychorrizal fungi types.

Severely abused, disturbed and polluted soils are the ones that will benefit most from the added inocula products. Whatever microbes you apply are not likely to hurt the soil. The plant and many other organisms already in the soil ecosystem will sort out which ones are needed, and the desirable ones will prevail. See the book by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis, Teaming with Microbes, as well as the web, for much more detailed information on this subject.

Use Compost Wisely

2008-03-14T02:36:00.003-06:00

April is the month that draws a gardening crowd. Soil temperatures will soon be 50 degrees F, and there is still time to plant all the spring crops. I deal with a lot of people who are already involved or want to be involved in the organic gardening approach. Many say that for the sake of their family's health they don't want pesticides on their gardens and lawns. They know the facts: pesticides are toxic, they are designed to kill, and they continue to compromise human health. For anyone switching to the organic approach, it is advisable to spend some time learning the principles and guidelines involved in the organic discipline. There are many good books on organic gardening and much information available on the web. If you have questions, please do not hesitate to call or send me an email.

When we think of going organic, we automatically think in terms of adding compost to our gardens. The average soil in Arkansas has 1.25% organic matter, and a desirable level in the garden is 5%, so compost is generally needed. The nutrient quality of the compost will only be as good as the material that went into the pile. It can vary a lot. Decomposed cotton burs are exceptionally high in potassium, and too much of that kind of compost can upset desirable mineral ratios in the soil.

How much compost to add depends on the soil's current organic matter level. It is best to think in terms of building the soil to a good organic matter and nutrient level, and then doing a maintenance program. As a guide for starting new garden beds, I recommend double-digging garden beds at least one time. When double-digging the first time, add 40 gallons of compost per 100 square feet to the lower layer (10-20-inch) and 20 gallons per 100 square feet to the to the top 10 inches. While building to the 5% organic matter level, add another 20 gallons per 100 square feet for each new crop. With this plan, in 3 or 4 years you will have a crumbly, sponge-cake like soil, vastly different from the original. Once you get to the 5% organic matter level, and you get the right amounts and ratios of minerals, and have good biological activity, the compost can likely be cut to 20 gallons per 100 square feet per year.

A yard of compost is about 200 gallons and is enough for 270 square feet for the initial double-digging phase. For subsequent applications, a yard will do about 1000 square feet.

Do not add excessive amounts of compost to your garden. Do not build a garden bed with compost and vermiculite or sand only. Unfortunately, I have seen gardens where this has been done. Nitrogen levels are too high and the plants are highly vegetative, but yield little. In addition those high nitrate plants attract insects, and the fruit produced is bound to be high in nitrates (not good). Excess compost can also bring the P and K to excessive levels. If that happens, back off on the compost and be sure the other nutrients are at the proper amounts and ratios. I use the Arkansas soil tests reports to look at pounds of nutrients per acre available, but depend on other sources for making organic recommendations.

Increased organic matter in the soil also improves the soil tilth (soil structure), and makes for a lighter,
fluffier, and easy-to-work soil that we all desire. Perhaps the most noticeable characteristic of increased organic matter is the increased ability of the soil to hold water. The following table demonstrates just how important the organic matter is for holding water. "Humus" is the organic matter that has been digested by microbes.

Table 1 -- APPROXIMATE WATER HOLDING CAPACITY OF HUMUS

(Note: 1 inch of water yields 28,000 gallons/acre or 643 gallons for 1,000 square feet.)

HUMUS LEVEL------SOIL DEPTH------WATER HOLDING CAPACITY

-----percent------------------inches---------------------inches of rain

-------1--------------------------7---------------------------------.36

-------2--------------------------7---------------------------------.72

-------5--------------------------7--------------------------------1.80

------5-------------------------21--------------------------------7.40

The other important values of organic matter include its ability to provide nutrients and buffer the soil against pH changes. The organic matter also serves to hold nutrients in the soil. This is especially important in sandy soils. High organic soils are generally darker in color and can warm up faster in the spring. High organic matter soils have higher biological activity, which helps to keep the plants healthy.

It is wise to get a soil organic matter content analysis to check the effectiveness of your soil building activities. This organic matter test is done separately, so take an extra pint of soil when you get your other soil test done by the Extension Service. The regular soil test is free, but the organic matter test now costs $6.00.

Building the soil organic matter content requires a long-term commitment. Expect major improvement over the first few years, and then generally a slower process for the next 5-10 years. Remember to get soil tests and add minerals to the soil, where needed, at the same time you are adding the organic matter. It all works together, and eventually you reach a healthy, well-balanced soil that gives you tasty, nutrient-dense produce.

Soil Tilth, Soil Structure, and Soil Microbes

2008-02-24T22:56:00.005-06:00

The most frequent garden question this time of year is, "when should I plant my potatoes, onions, etc?" My answer, use the Extension Service Year–Round Home Garden Planting Guide. It has a good list of garden plants with recommended planting dates. I also have a document on my web site, where I describe gardening activities, month by month. http://harmonygardens.blogspot.com

I have already started a few hardy things outside, but they are under plastic. In fact, I have some lettuce and spinach that survived in the mini-greenhouse all winter. At this time of year, I have to open up the mini-greenhouse or it gets too hot on the warmer days. The biggest problem with mini-greenhouses in this area is the struggle with the wind.

Planning and record keeping are important aspects of gardening. I do it for two main reasons--to keep up with crop rotations and for keeping detailed records on soil fertilization. I really encourage you to keep up with all fertilizers and compost added to the garden. I also keep records on crop production, and do regular brix testing on the harvested produce.

Soil Tilth. To understand gardening, first and foremost you must understand that what goes on below the surface is the key to production. It's simple cause and effect. The healthy soil is the cause, and the production is the effect. Soil tilth refers to how easy the soil is to work, and is a general indicator of soil structure and health of the soil. Teaming with Microbes, by Jeff Lowenfel and Wayne Lewis is an excellent reference on this subject.

Soil structure refers to how the soil particles are held together, and is a very good indicator of how much life is in the soil. The more life there is in the soil, the better the structure and the better the tilth. Soil life means bacteria, fungi, actinomycetes, earthworms and more. All of these produce sticky carbohydrates that act like glues, binding individual mineral and humic particles together in aggregates. The question of how to improve soil tilth, can be answered in three words. Improve soil life! Here are the do and don't rules in simple and straightforward form:

Do add compost and compost tea to increase soil organic matter to 5 percent or more, and to add beneficial microbes.
Do keep the soil covered at all times. Use cover crops and mulches.
Do keep the soil well aerated. Use raised beds.
Do remineralize the soil to the proper level to produce nutrient dense produce.
Don't work the soil excessively. Roto-tilling destroys fungi and soil structure, and reduces the ability of soil to hold water.
Don't add hostile, toxic compounds to the soil. Avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

These rules apply to all kinds of soils – sandy, heavy clays, shallow, deep, rocky, acid, alkaline, anaerobic, humus, unadulterated or virgin, and those where excessive toxins have been used in the past. These rules are essentially the organic gardening methods--the preferred future, sustainability approach.

Planting Date Guide for NW Arkansas

2008-01-14T22:25:00.001-06:00

This is a guide for gardening activities in NW Arkansas. See University of Arkansas Year-Round Home Planting Guide and www.uaex.edu for more details. Also see Jeavons' book, How to Grow More Vegetables, pages 78-79.

Averages--------------Jan--Feb--Mar--Apr--May--Jun--Jul--Aug--Sep--Oct--Nov--Dec

High Temp-degrees F--44---49---58----69----76---83---89---88---80---71---58----48
Low Temp-degrees F--22---27---37----36----55---63---68---66---59---47---37----27
Precipitation-inches----1.8--2.5---3.9---4.3----5.0--5.0--2.9--3.6---4.5--3.8---3.7---3.1

Our growing season in NW AR is about 200 days. April 10 is the mean date of last spring freeze, and Oct 30 is the mean date of first fall freeze. Within the area, the freeze dates will vary depending on elevation, slope position, and year-to-year variation. The dates below are general guidelines.

January

Get a soil test from UA, Extension Service. It is free. Plan your garden layout and order seeds.
If soil is workable, in late January you may add compost and some fertilizers. Do not work the soil if it is too wet. If a handful of squeezed soil does not break apart when dropped, the soil is too wet to work. For fruit trees, this is time for pruning and dormant oil sprays. If you have winter weeds, pull them before they go to seed.
February and March

Seeds germinate more slowly in cool soils. Do not rush to plant if the season has been cloudy and cool. Sometimes by late February, temperatures will be above 40 degrees and you can plant Irish potatoes, onions, lettuce, beets, cabbage, broccoli, Swiss chard, radishes, kale, mustard, turnips, and English peas. You can repeat plantings of these crops until the end of March and into April. Basically all of these crops will handle light frosts of 27-28 degrees. When the weather gets hot, these crops will fade.

April and May

April is a great month for harvesting the spring vegetables and the tricky month for starting the summer vegetables. Summer vegetables will not survive frosts. As a rule, basil, squash, melons, okra, peppers, tomatoes, sweet corn, beans, cucumbers, dill, pumpkins, and sweet potatoes need a soil temperature of 60 degrees to germinate and grow. In a very warm year, they will do okay by planting in late April. However, by waiting until May, you are assured that there will be no frosts, soil temperature will be more ideal, and the plants will get off to a better start.

June and July

Where you have harvested the spring vegetables, you may want to plant additional summer crops. Sweet potatoes, hot peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, watermelon and okra love hot weather and will do well if planted in June. You can plant other summer vegetables in July, but high temperatures will generally hurt the plants and reduce yield.

August and September

August is another transition month. It will seem very much like summer, but you need to be thinking about fall vegetables. Fall vegetables like spinach, lettuce, beets, carrots, turnips, kale, and Swiss chard can be planted from mid August to mid September. As a rule you will get a better crop of these than when planted in the spring.

September is the ideal month to plant winter cover crops. Do a soil test in August, so you can fertilize before you plant the cover crop. I plant oats or Austrian winter peas on all the garden beds that are not in fall vegetables. When oats if planted in mid September, you will get a thick, tall stand of oats that will cover and protect the soil and crowd out weeds all winter.

October and November

If you have followed the general plan described here, these are the great gardening months. You will be eating some very good fall vegetables, and have relatively little other garden work to do. Fall vegetables are generally sweeter and more tasty. I also plant my garlic in October. Dig your sweet potatoes before the first frost. If you have fall/winter weeds, remove them by pulling or hoeing.

December

You can expect to pull fresh carrots throughout December. If you have strawberries, put on a light straw mulch. Remove it in February. Order seed catalogues. Depending on the soil test, I will add fertilizers before each crop is planted, including the cover crops. As a rule, I will add 30 gallons of compost per 100 square feet before each crop is planted.

Paramagnetic Rock

2008-01-14T04:57:00.001-06:00

Paramagnetic Rock for Increased Plant Growth

By Calvin F. Bey, CFBey1936@cox.net http://harmonygardens.blogspot.com

What Is Paramagnetic Rock?
Physicists tell us that all matter has an electrical ability to be either attracted or repelled by a magnet. If matter is attracted to a magnet, it is said to be paramagnetic. If the matter is repelled, it is said to be diamagnetic. There are big differences in degree of attraction and repulsion among various materials. The paramagnetic of many elements and compounds can be found in physics handbooks. The actual paramagnetic values of rocks, metals, fertilizers, elements, and soils can be measured with a magnetic meter (called the Phil Callahan Soil Meter), available from Pike Labs (see www.pikeagri.com ).

While many materials are paramagnetic, it is the highly magnetic volcanic rock that is used as the soil additive and conditioner. To understand how it works, think of paramagnetic rock as a conduit for gathering the electro-magnetic energy of the cosmos. In the soil, this "gathering power" sets up a flow of energy from the paramagnetic material to other material that is diamagnetic (e.g. plant material and compost). The higher the soil CGS value, the higher will be the flow of energy. It is this flow of energy that is responsible for increased microbial development and the resulting plant growth. Other paramagnetic materials include charred wood, ash, air, oxygen, water, calcium, potassium, sodium, and soil. . As a rule, the paramagnetic rock is not a provider of minerals for the plants. The values of paramagnetic rock can be as high as 9,000 or more. Paramagnetic rock is sometimes referred to as lava sands. Many soils will have paramagnetic values that are less than 100, with some as low as 25. These will not be highly productive soils. The unit of measure is CGS, (centimeter/grams/second), which is gauss/million, i.e. the measurement of the magnetic flux density.

Most organic molecules, e.g. plants, are diamagnetic. You can actually observe this. Try transplanting very tiny carrot plants, with hair-like roots. As you stick the carrot root into a small hole in the soil, the carrot root actually bends as if attracted by the soil (which is exactly what is taking place).

Soils with high organic matter and high biological activity are usually higher in paramagnetic values. Paramagnetic values can also be increased by correcting the calcium/magnesium ratio (to the 7:1ideal ratio) and raising the oxygen levels in the soil. All the systems in the soil work together. The higher the organic matter in the soil, and the accompanying biological activity, the more effective will be the addition of paramagnetic rock. The following soil paramagnetic readings can serve as a guide:

0-100 = not good soil

100-300= good soil

300-700 = very good soil

700-1,200 = excellent soil

The Value of Paramagnetic Rock: The most important point about paramagnetism is that it contributes to plant growth. Dr. Phil Callahan, the guru in this discipline, says unequivocally, that paramagnetism is required for plant growth. He and others list the values of high paramagnetic soils as increased water retention, increased microbial stimulation, improved nutrient utilization, and something referred to as increased light energy. Other benefits in the soil include increased seed germination and flowering, improved insect resistance, increased frost and drought hardiness, and more earthworms in the soil. It has also been shown to assist in overcoming the effects of toxins (atrazine) in the soil.

Paramagnetic rock can also be beneficial when added to compost piles. It increases the biological activity, which in turn speeds up the rates of decomposition.

Australian agriculture consultant, Graeme Sait, (author of the book Nutrition Rules!)
now tests all his clients' soils for paramagnetic value. If low, he recommends a highly paramagnetic rock. Callahan, in his book, Paramagnetism, writes about the great healing places in the world as being highly paramagnetic. Likewise there are interesting facts connecting paramagnetism to Round Towers in Ireland, as well as at Indian mounds and the Pyramids.

Rates Of Application and Placement: Paramagnetic rock of high quality (CGS 9,000+) is available from Nitron Industries in the Fayetteville, Arkansas area. The rate of application is dependent on the CGS values of paramagnetic rock and the soil to which it is to be applied. For my garden, my goal is to get the paramagnetic value in the 300-700 (very good) range. I have a good soil, and have increased the organic matter content to about 4%, but before adding any paramagnetic rock, the paramagnetic value averaged 85. I did some testing, and by thoroughly mixing paramagnetic rock (with a CGS of 9,000) to an 8-inch depth, with rates of ¼ pound, ½ pound, and 1 pound per square foot, I could raise the CGS values of my garden soil to 250, 475, and 565 respectively. A cup of paramagnetic rock weighs about ½ pound. I have tested many garden soils in the area, and almost all are below 100, with some as low as 25. I have now applied 1 pound per square foot over my entire garden. This may seem like a very high rate, but remember that the magnetic, energy-collecting value remains in place for centuries.

Preliminary testing of paramagnetic rock in my garden showed increased growth of newly set out strawberry plants, and slightly higher brix reading(0.5 ) for tomatoes. Be aware that the effect will likely increase with time. The likely first action in the soil is to increase the microbial activity, which in turn will likely release soil minerals. Paramagnetic rock is not a substitute for minerals, and will likely not fully correct soils that are seriously deficient or out of balance in minerals. However, as the soil improves, the paramagnetic rock will enhance plant growth and fruit production.

For gardens and other areas that can be worked, mix the paramagnetic rock into the top 6-8 inches of soil. The soil does not need to be roto-tilled. You can do the mixing with a garden fork.

For areas where plants are already established, like lawns and trees, simple spread it on the surface. Over time, the soil microbes and earthworms will move it down into the soil where it is most beneficial. By adding compost or mulch, you can increase the earthworm activity and speed up the incorporation process.

References:

Callahan, Phillip S. 1995. Paramagnetism --Rediscovering Nature's Secret Force of Growth. 128 pages. See www.acresusa.com.

Sait, Graeme. 2003. Nutrition Rules! 308 pages. See www.acresusa.com

Callahan, Phillip S. and others. Paramagnetism Rountable - State of the Art. Tape from 2001 Acres U.S.A. Conference. See www.acresusa.com .

Spring into Action -- Get a Soil Test

2008-01-13T20:44:00.002-06:00

I often say that the basics of organic gardening are very simple and yet very complex. The basics are simple in the sense of following three interrelated ideas. (1) Increase soil biological activity, water holding capacity, and soil mineral levels by adding compost, using cover crops and mulches, and not using pesticides. (2) Keep the soil well aerated, using raised beds and minimum tillage to develop improved soil structure, which means better tilth or soil workability. (3) Remineralize the soil to a level that is adequate to grow nutrient dense plants, using minimally processed and organic materials. These basic ideas become complex when we address the questions of what kind and how much fertilizer to add.

Every soil is different. This is especially true of garden soils where a lot of different fertilizers have been added. Without a soil (or plant tissue) test, it's impossible to give good advice on how much fertilizer to add. It becomes just a guess, and I prefer to leave the gambling to those going to the casinos. It's like asking your medical Doctor for specific advice based on average health conditions for those in the State. It makes no sense.

In addition to the soil test, before giving advice, I like to know some past history of production and problems. I don't try to "fix" every soil problem in one year. If you are providing conditions to create the biologically healthy soil, some of the other soil conditions (like nutrient levels and pH) will change on their own. Microbes are the plant's digestive system, and the workhorses for creating healthy and productive soils.

There is another element of fertilization refinement when we address the specific crop being grown. You will need more phosphorus for leafy crops than for seed crops. For small gardens, I don't try to fine tune at this level. It seems best to just do a single recommendation for all the vegetables in the garden. I do treat the more acid loving blueberries and strawberries separately. For vegetables, I strive for a soil pH of 6. 4. Blueberries do much better if you can get the pH down to 5.5 or lower.

The Arkansas Soil Test Report is a good place to start for assessing your soils. The tests are free and you will get an analysis for ten different elements, plus soil pH, cation exchange capacity, and base exchange for Ca, Mg, K, and Na. I encourage you to get an understanding of what this all means. Because the Arkansas analyses are very general, I have also been sending soils to another independent laboratory, where they have a lot of experience with making fertilizer recommendations for growing nutrient dense produce. Because the different labs use different nutrient extraction methods, direct comparison between laboratories are not possible. If you are interested in additional information on this subject, please contact me.

Recommended Reading: Teaming with Microbes – A Gardener's Guide to the Soil Food Web, by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis, 2006. Available from www.AcresUSA.com. In a clear, straightforward language, the authors describe the activities of the soil organisms, and tell us how to promote healthy soils through the use of compost, mulches, and compost teas. The information can you discover how to create rich, nurturing, living soil – without resorting to harmful synthetic chemicals.